If you’re looking for a rewarding and straightforward crop to grow, learning how to grow red potatoes is a perfect choice. These versatile tubers, with their thin, colorful skins and creamy flesh, are surprisingly easy to cultivate in a garden bed, raised box, or even a large container.
You don’t need a lot of space or expertise to get a great harvest. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing your seed potatoes to storing your bounty. Let’s get your hands dirty and grow some delicious red potatoes.
How to Grow Red Potatoes
Growing red potatoes follows the same basic principles as other potato types, but paying attention to a few key details will ensure your best crop yet. The entire journey takes about 70 to 120 days from planting to harvest, depending on the specific variety you choose.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Gathering your supplies beforehand makes the process smooth. Here’s your basic list:
- Seed Potatoes: Always use certified disease-free seed potatoes from a garden center, not grocery store potatoes.
- A Sunny Spot: Potatoes need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
- Loose, Well-Draining Soil: Heavy clay soil needs amending with compost.
- Compost or Well-Rotted Manure: For nutrients and soil structure.
- A Shovel or Garden Fork: For digging and hilling.
- Watering Can or Hose: For consistent moisture.
Step 1: Choosing and Preparing Your Seed Potatoes
Start with healthy, certified seed potatoes about two to four weeks before your last expected spring frost. Look for varieties like ‘Red Norland’ (early season) or ‘Pontiac’ (main season).
To prepare them, place the seed potatoes in a cool, bright spot to encourage sprouting, a process called “chitting.” Small, sturdy sprouts should appear. A day or two before planting, you can cut larger seed potatoes into pieces. Each piece should be about the size of a golf ball and have at least two or three “eyes” (sprouts).
Let the cut pieces sit out so the cut surfaces dry and form a callus. This helps prevent rot once they’re in the ground.
Step 2: Planting Your Red Potatoes
Plant your potatoes when the soil has warmed to about 45°F (7°C). Work the soil deeply, mixing in plenty of compost to a depth of about 12 inches.
- Dig a trench about 6 inches deep.
- Place your seed potato pieces cut-side down, with the eyes facing upward, spacing them about 12 inches apart in the row.
- Cover the potatoes gently with 3-4 inches of soil.
- Space your rows about 2 to 3 feet apart to allow room for growth and hilling.
Water the area thoroughly after planting. If you’re using containers, ensure they are at least 16 inches deep and wide, with excellent drainage holes.
Step 3: The Crucial Hilling Process
Hilling is the secret to a great potato harvest. As your plants grow to about 6-8 inches tall, use a hoe or shovel to mound soil around the base of the stem, covering about half of the plant. Leave the top foliage exposed.
Repeat this process every couple of weeks until the plants begin to flower. Hilling protects developing tubers from sunlight, which turns them green and toxic. It also encourages the plant to produce more potatoes along the buried stem.
You can hill with soil, straw, or even shredded leaves. Straw makes harvesting very clean and easy later on.
Step 4: Watering and Feeding Your Crop
Potatoes need consistent moisture, especially once they start forming tubers. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, including rainfall. Water deeply at the base of the plants.
Erratic watering can lead to misshapen tubers or a disease called scab. A layer of mulch after hilling can help retain soil moisture. For feeding, a balanced organic fertilizer at planting time is usually sufficient if you started with rich soil. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth instead of potatoes.
Step 5: Watching for Pests and Problems
Keep a eye out for common potato pests. Colorado potato beetles are a major nuisance. Hand-pick the orange larvae and adults off plants regularly.
Aphids can also appear; a strong spray of water often dislodges them. The best defense against disease is crop rotation. Don’t plant potatoes in the same spot more than once every three years.
This helps prevent soil-borne diseases like blight. If you see signs of blight, remove affected leaves immediately to slow its spread.
Signs of Common Issues
- Yellowing Leaves: Could be normal maturation, overwatering, or a nutrient issue.
- Holes in Leaves: Likely Colorado potato beetles or their larvae.
- Green Potato Skins: Means tubers were exposed to light. Cut away the green portions before eating.
Step 6: Harvesting Your Red Potatoes
You can harvest “new” potatoes about 2-3 weeks after the plants finish flowering. Gently dig around the plants with your hands to steal a few tender, small potatoes.
For your main harvest of mature potatoes, wait until the plant vines have completely yellowed and died back. This allows the skins to toughen up for storage. On a dry day, use a garden fork to carefully loosen the soil several inches away from the plant.
Lift the plant and sift through the soil to find all your potatoes. Be gentle to avoid bruising them, as bruises can lead to rot in storage.
Step 7: Curing and Storing Your Harvest
Proper curing is essential for long-term storage. Brush off excess soil, but do not wash the potatoes. Let them cure in a dark, well-ventilated, and humid place (like a garage or basement) for about 10-14 days.
This allows the skins to fully harden and minor nicks to heal. After curing, store your red potatoes in a cool (38-45°F), dark, and humid environment. A perforated paper bag or cardboard box in a cool cellar works perfectly.
Never store potatoes with onions, as they release gases that cause each other to spoil faster. Check them periodically and remove any that are softening.
FAQ: Your Red Potato Questions Answered
Can I grow red potatoes from store-bought ones?
It’s not recommended. Grocery store potatoes are often treated with a sprout inhibitor and may carry diseases that can linger in your soil for years. Certified seed potatoes are a safer, more reliable investment.
How deep do you plant red potatoes?
Plant seed pieces about 4 inches deep, then gradually hill soil around the plant as it grows. The final hill can be 6-12 inches tall, providing lots of space for tubers to form.
What month is best to plant potatoes?
Plant in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. This is typically 2-4 weeks before your last frost date. In milder climates, you can also plant for a fall harvest.
Do red potatoes need full sun?
Yes, they thrive in full sun, which means a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day. More sun generally leads to a larger and healthier harvest.
Can I grow potatoes in a bucket or bag?
Absolutely! Container growing is excellent for potatoes. Ensure the container is deep enough (at least 16 inches) and has drainage. Plant 1-2 seed pieces per large container and follow the same hilling process, adding more potting mix as the plants grow.
Why are my potato plants flowering?
Flowering is a normal part of the potato plant’s life cycle. It doesn’t effect the tuber development underground. Some varieties flower profusely, while others hardly at all. It’s not a sign of a problem.