If you’re looking for a houseplant with truly unique leaves, your search might just end here. The anthurium vittarifolium is celebrated for its striking striped foliage that cascades beautifully from a hanging basket.
This plant is a showstopper. Its long, strap-like leaves can grow several feet long, each one elegantly marked with subtle, pale veins that stand out against the deep green background. It brings a touch of the tropical rainforest right into your home.
While it looks exotic, caring for it is quite straightforward once you understand its basic needs. This guide will walk you through everything from finding the right light to encouraging those spectacular leaves to thrive.
Anthurium Vittarifolium
Native to the rainforests of Colombia and Brazil, this anthurium is an epiphyte. In the wild, it grows on trees rather than in the soil. Its roots are adapted to absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and rain. This key fact is the secret to keeping it happy in your care.
What Makes Its Foliage So Striking?
The “striped” effect isn’t painted on. It’s created by the leaf’s structure. The main veins (called primary lateral veins) are sunken on the top surface of the leaf. This creates narrow, trough-like channels that reflect light differently.
- Leaf Shape: Long, pendulous, and strap-like, often reaching 2-4 feet in length.
- Color Contrast: Matte, deep green leaf surface with contrasting, silvery-white or pale green veins.
- Growth Habit: Leaves grow in a graceful, cascading manner, perfect for displaying on a shelf or in a hanging planter.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Replicating its natural habitat is the goal. Think dappled sunlight, consistent moisture, and good air flow.
Light Requirements
Bright, indirect light is perfect. An east-facing window is ideal. A few feet back from a south or west window works too. Direct sun will scorch those beautiful leaves, causing brown, crispy patches.
- Too little light leads to slow growth and loss of that vibrant vein contrast.
- If new leaves are smaller and the stems are stretching out, it needs more light.
Temperature & Humidity
This plant apreciates warmth and humidity, just like its rainforest home.
- Temperature: Aim for 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Avoid drafts and sudden temperature drops below 60°F (15°C).
- Humidity: 60% or higher is best. Low humidity can cause brown leaf tips.
To increase humidity:
- Use a room humidifier (most effective).
- Place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
- Group it with other humidity-loving plants.
Planting and Potting Mix
Because it’s an epiphyte, it needs a chunky, airy mix that drains quickly. Dense, water-retentive soil will suffocate its roots and cause rot.
A simple recipe you can mix at home:
- 40% Orchid bark (medium grade)
- 30% Coconut coir or sphagnum moss
- 20% Perlite
- 10% Horticultural charcoal
Choose a pot with excellent drainage holes. Terracotta pots are great because they allow the mix to dry more evenly. Repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots circling the pot.
Watering and Feeding
This is where many people go wrong. The goal is consistent moisture, not constant sogginess.
Watering Routine
Water thoroughly until it runs out the drainage holes. Then, let the top couple inches of the mix dry out before watering again. You can check with your finger.
- In warmer, brighter months, this might be once a week.
- In winter, it could be every 10-14 days.
The leaves will feel slightly limp when it’s thirsty. It’s better to slightly under-water than over-water.
Fertilizing for Healthy Growth
Feed it during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength.
- Apply fertilizer once a month.
- Flush the potting mix with plain water every few months to prevent salt buildup.
- Stop fertilizing in fall and winter when growth slows.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning is simple. Remove any leaves that are yellowing, damaged, or completely dead. Cut the leaf stem near the base of the plant with clean, sharp scissors.
Dust the leaves regularly with a damp cloth. This allows the plant to breathe and photosynthesize efficiently, keeping those stripes bright. Avoid leaf shine products, which can clog pores.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Yellowing Leaves
This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the roots. If they are mushy and brown, you have root rot.
- Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the old mix.
- Cut away any rotten roots with sterile tools.
- Repot in fresh, dry mix and hold off on watering for a few days.
Brown Leaf Tips or Edges
Usually caused by low humidity or inconsistent watering. It can also be from fertilizer burn or tap water chemicals.
- Increase humidity around the plant.
- Try using distilled, rain, or filtered water for watering.
- Ensure you are diluting fertilizer properly.
Pests
Watch for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Check the undersides of leaves regularly.
- Isolate any affected plant immediately.
- Wipe leaves with a solution of mild soap and water.
- For persistent problems, use an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray.
Propagation
You can create new plants from your anthurium vittarifolium through division or stem cuttings. The best time to do this is in spring or early summer.
Method: Division
- Gently remove the plant from its pot.
- Locate a natural section with its own roots and at least one or two leaves.
- Carefully tease the roots apart or use a clean knife to separate them.
- Pot each new division into its own container with fresh mix.
Displaying Your Plant
Its natural cascading habit makes it perfect for elevated spots. Consider a macramé hanger near a window, or place it on a tall plant stand. Let the leaves trail freely for the best visual effect. The striping is most pronounced when viewed from above, so think about your sight lines.
FAQ
Is the anthurium vittarifolium rare?
It used to be quite rare, but it has become more available from specialty nurseries and online plant shops in recent years.
Does the striped anthurium flower?
It can produce inflorescences typical of anthuriums (a spathe and spadix), but they are greenish and inconspicuous. The foliage is the main attraction here.
Is anthurium vittarifolium pet friendly?
No. Like other aroids, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.
Why are my vittarifolium’s leaves not very striped?
Insufficient light is the most common cause. Move it to a brighter location with indirect light. Also, ensure you are feeding it appropriately during the growing season.
Can I grow it in just moss?
Yes, many growers successfully keep them in sphagnum moss. It holds moisture well but you must be careful not to let it stay soggy. A chunky mix is often easier for beginners to manage.
With its stunning, architectural leaves, the anthurium vittarifolium is a rewarding plant to grow. Pay attention to its light, water, and humidity needs, and it will thrive for years, adding a dramatic and elegant touch to your indoor garden. Remember, the key is mimicking that breezy, humid, tree-bound environment it calls home.