How To Grow Bigger Garlic

If you want to know how to grow bigger garlic, you’re in the right place. Getting those large, homegrown bulbs is all about the details, from the moment you choose a clove to the day you pull it from the ground.

Bigger garlic isn’t just about bragging rights. Larger bulbs are easier to peel and pack more flavor. With a few key techniques, you can consistently grow impressive garlic in your own garden.

Let’s get started.

This principle guides everything. Big bulbs come from happy, unstressed plants. Your goal is to give them a long, strong growing season so they can put all there energy into bulb development.

Think of it like building a foundation. A weak start leads to a small finish. We’ll cover each step to ensure your garlic has the best foundation possible.

Start with the Right Garlic Variety

Not all garlic is created equal. Picking the right type for your climate is the first secret to success.

Hardneck Garlic: Best for colder climates with real winters. It produces a stiff central stalk (the “hard neck”) and fewer, but often larger, cloves per bulb. The flavor is typically more complex. It also creates delicious scapes in early summer.
Softneck Garlic: Ideal for milder winter climates. It has a flexible stalk, stores longer, and produces more cloves per bulb (though sometimes they are smaller). This is the type you commonly see braided.
Elephant Garlic: Actually a type of leek, but grown like garlic. It produces massive bulbs with mild flavor. If sheer size is your goal, this is a fun option.

Your local garden center or a reputable online seed supplier can recommend the best varieties for your area. Always buy from a trusted source—grocery store garlic is often treated to prevent sprouting.

Planting Time is Critical

Timing might be the most common mistake. Garlic needs a period of cold to properly develop. For most regions, this means fall planting.

Plant 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes solid.
This allows the clove to establish roots but not send up top growth.
Come spring, it’s ready to explode out of the ground with a head start.

Spring planting is possible, but bulbs will often be smaller because the chilling period was shortened or missed. If you must plant in spring, do it as soon as the soil can be worked.

Preparing Your Planting Site

Garlic loves sun and loose, fertile soil. Here’s how to prepare:

Choose a Sunny Spot: Full sun (at least 6-8 hours) is non-negotiable for maximum growth.
Test and Amend Soil: Garlic prefers soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. You can get a simple test kit. Loosen the soil deeply—at least 12 inches down.
Add Organic Matter: Mix in several inches of well-rotted compost or aged manure. This improves drainage and provides slow-release nutrients. Avoid fresh manure, as it can harm the bulbs.
Fertilize at Planting: Add a balanced organic fertilizer or one higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the bag) to encourage root and bulb growth. Work it into the soil.

How to Plant for Success

Planting correctly sets the stage for big bulbs.

Break the Bulb: Carefully break your seed garlic bulb into individual cloves. Keep the papery skin on each clove.
Select the Best Cloves: Plant only the largest, healthiest-looking cloves. The size of the clove directly influences the size of the bulb it will produce. Use smaller cloves for cooking.
Plant Deep Enough: Place cloves pointy-end up, 2-3 inches deep. In colder zones, go for 3-4 inches.
Give Them Space: Space cloves 6-8 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. Crowding is a surefire way to get small garlic.
Mulch Heavily: After planting, cover the bed with 4-6 inches of straw, leaves, or grass clippings. This protects the cloves over winter, suppresses weeds, and conserves moisture.

Caring for Your Growing Garlic

Once spring arrives, your garlic will need consistent care.

Watering: Garlic needs about 1 inch of water per week. Consistent moisture is crucial, especially during bulb formation (late spring). Reduce watering as harvest approaches to let the bulbs cure.
Weeding: Garlic hates competition. Weed carefully by hand to avoid damaging the shallow roots.
Fertilizing Again: In early spring, as growth resumes, side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer like blood meal or a balanced organic blend. Feed again when you see the bulbs beginning to swell.

The Importance of Scapes (For Hardnecks)

If you grow hardneck garlic, you’ll see a curly flower stalk called a scape emerge in early summer. You must remove it.

Cut the scape off once it makes one full curl. This tells the plant to redirect its energy from making a flower and seed back into bulking up the bulb underground. It’s a simple step that makes a huge difference. Plus, scapes are a delicious bonus harvest for pestos and stir-fries!

Knowing When and How to Harvest

Harvesting at the right moment is key. Pull too early, and bulbs are small. Too late, and the cloves may burst out of their skins, reducing storage life.

Watch for these signs:

The bottom 3-4 leaves turn brown, while the top 5-6 are still green.
The plant begins to look a bit “tired” and starts to lean over.

To harvest, use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil beside the plant, then lift the bulb out. Do not pull by the stem, as it can break off. Brush off excess soil, but don’t wash the bulbs.

Curing and Storing for Longevity

Proper curing hardens the skins for storage.

Bundle 6-8 plants together or lay bulbs in a single layer on a rack.
Hang or place them in a cool, dark, dry, and well-ventilated spot (like a garage or shed).
Let them cure for 3-4 weeks. The stems and roots will dry completely.
Once cured, trim roots to ¼ inch and cut stems back to 1-2 inches (or leave long for braiding softnecks).
Store your beautiful, big bulbs in a mesh bag or basket in a cool, dark place.

Troubleshooting Small Garlic

If your bulbs stayed small, here’s what might of happened:

Wrong planting time: Likely planted too late in fall or too late in spring.
Poor soil: Soil was too heavy, lacked nutrients, or wasn’t loose enough.
Overcrowding: Cloves were planted to close together.
Inconsistent water: Periods of drought during key growth phases.
Not removing scapes: (Hardnecks only) The plant wasted energy on seed production.
Harvested too early: Didn’t allow the full growing cycle to complete.

FAQ: Your Garlic Questions Answered

Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?

It’s not recommended. Store-bought garlic is often from varieties unsuited to your climate and may be treated with sprout inhibitors. For the biggest bulbs, buy certified seed garlic.

How do I make garlic bulbs bigger?

Follow the core steps: plant the biggest cloves in fall, in rich soil, with plenty of space and sun, water consistently, remove scapes, and harvest at the right time. Each step contributes to final size.

What fertilizer makes garlic bigger?

A balanced fertilizer at planting (like 10-10-10) and a nitrogen boost in spring helps. Many gardeners swear by adding bone meal (for phosphorus) at planting to encourage large bulb formation.

Does more water make garlic bigger?

Consistent water does, especially during bulb swelling. But “more” isn’t better—soggy, waterlogged soil will rot the bulbs. Aim for even moisture, like 1 inch per week, and ensure good drainage.

Why is my homegrown garlic so small?

Small garlic is usually caused by one of the troubleshooting issues above. Review your planting time, spacing, and watering habits. It’s often a simple fix for next season.

Growing bigger garlic is a rewarding process that pays off for months in your kitchen. By giving your plants what they need from start to finish, you’ll be pulling up impressively large, flavorful bulbs that any gardener would be proud of. Remember, start with the best seed, plant in fall, and don’t forget to cut those scapes. Your patience and care will be reflected in your harvest.