How To Get Rid Of Creeping Jenny

If you’re wondering how to get rid of creeping jenny, you’re not alone. This aggressive ground cover, also known as Lysimachia nummularia, can quickly turn from a charming plant into a garden nightmare, smothering other plants and spreading relentlessly. Its cheerful yellow flowers belie its invasive nature. This guide will walk you through effective, proven methods to reclaim your garden.

Complete removal requires a multi-step approach because of its tenacious growth habit. Creeping jenny spreads through both vigorous surface runners and underground stems. Missing even a small piece can lead to a full resurgence. Patience and persistence are your greatest tools here.

Understanding Your Enemy: Creeping Jenny Biology

To defeat it, you need to know how it grows. Each node along its stem can root into the soil, creating a new plant. It thrives in moist, partly shaded areas but can tolerate full sun and dry spells once established. This adaptability makes it so tough.

Rapid Spread: Stems can grow several feet in a single season.
Dual Propagation: It spreads above ground (stolons) and below ground (rhizomes).
Regeneration: Tiny fragments left behind can regrow.

Method 1: Manual Removal by Hand-Pulling

This is most effective for new, small infestations or in garden beds where you want to avoid chemicals. The best time is after a rain, when the soil is soft and moist.

Loosen the soil around the main patches with a garden fork or trowel.
Gently but firmly pull on the main stems, tracing them back to their origin. Try to lift entire networks of stems and roots.
Shake excess soil off the roots to ensure you see all the plant material.
Place all debris directly into a heavy-duty black plastic bag. Do not compost it, as it will likely survive and spread.
Monitor the area weekly for new sprouts and pull them immediately.

Tips for Successful Hand-Pulling

Use a hand rake to help gather the long runners. Be through, as any bits left in the soil can root again. This method is labor-intensive but very rewarding when done right.

Method 2: Smothering (Solarization and Smothering)

This organic method uses no chemicals. It works by depriving the plant of light and air. It’s excellent for larger, dedicated areas like a lawn or a future vegetable patch.

Mow or cut the creeping jenny as low as possible.
Water the area thoroughly to stimulate growth (this stresses the plant).
Cover the entire infestation with a solid barrier. Options include:
- Black plastic sheeting (UV-stabilized for durability)
- Overlapping cardboard layers
- A thick layer of newspaper (10+ sheets)
Secure the edges with rocks, soil, or landscape staples to block all light.
Leave the covering in place for at least one full growing season, preferably longer.

The heat under black plastic (solarization) cooks the plants and roots. Cardboard and newspaper smother it while eventually breaking down to improve soil. This is a slow but efective strategy.

Method 3: Careful Use of Herbicides

For severe, widespread infestations, herbicides may be the most practical option. Always use them as a last resort and follow label instructions precisely. Glyphosate or triclopyr-based herbicides are often recommended for broadleaf perennials.

Timing is Key: Apply in late summer or early fall when the plant is actively sending nutrients to its roots.
Spot Treatment: Use a sponge brush or a shielded sprayer to apply only to the creeping jenny leaves, avoiding desirable plants.
Multiple Applications: You will likely need 2-3 applications, spaced a few weeks apart.
Safety First: Wear protective clothing, and do not apply on windy days or near water sources.

Remember, these chemicals can harm other plants and impact soil health. They are a tool, not a cure-all, and should be part of a broader removal plan.

Method 4: The Dig-Out and Sift Approach

This is the most thorough physical method. It’s ideal for garden beds where you plan to replant quickly. It involves removing the top layer of soil to ensure you get every root fragment.

Define the infested area clearly.
Use a flat spade to skim off the top 2-3 inches of soil, where most of the roots and stems live.
Place this soil onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow.
Sift through the soil by hand or with a coarse screen to remove all plant parts.
Dispose of the plant material. The clean soil can be returned to the bed.

This is hard work, but it offers immediate results and a clean slate. It’s often the best way to deal with a stubborn patch in a prized flower bed.

Aftercare and Prevention: Stopping Regrowth

Your job isn’t done after the initial removal. Creeping jenny is notorious for coming back from tiny remnants.

Vigilant Monitoring: Check the area every two weeks for green shoots. Pull or spot-treat them immediately.
Plant Densely: Once clear, plant robust, dense ground covers or perennials (like hostas, ferns, or vinca minor) to outcompete any returning jenny.
Maintain Edges: Install deep physical edging (6+ inches) between your garden and any adjacent areas where creeping jenny grows, like a lawn or woodland.
Mulch Heavily: Apply a 3-4 inch layer of wood chip mulch to suppress any seedlings or fragments that try to emerge.

What Not to Do: Common Mistakes

Avoid these pitfalls that can make your problem worse.

Don’t Till It: Tilling chops the roots and stems into tiny pieces, each capable of growing a new plant, spreading the infestation.
Don’t Compost It: Home compost piles rarely get hot enough to kill the resilient roots and stems. Always bag and trash it.
Don’t Ignore the Edges: Creeping jenny will invade from neighboring properties. Create a defensive barrier.
Don’t Be Impatient: One round of removal is rarely enough. Budget for a season or two of follow-up.

FAQ: Your Creeping Jenny Questions Answered

Is creeping jenny the same as creeping Charlie?
No, they are different plants. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) has scalloped, kidney-shaped leaves and a minty smell. Creeping jenny has round, penny-like leaves. Control methods are similar, but it’s good to identify correctly.

Will vinegar kill creeping jenny?
Household vinegar may burn the top growth, but it rarely kills the deep roots. It’s a temporary fix and can harm soil biology. We don’t recommend it for a lasting solution.

What is the fastest way to remove creeping jenny?
For immediate clearing in a replantable bed, the dig-out and sift method is fastest. For large areas, a careful herbicide application followed by smothering may be the most efficient overall.

Can I ever use creeping jenny safely?
If you love its look, consider planting it in containers or hanging baskets where its trailing habit is confined. Never plant it directly in the ground unless you’re prepared to manage it aggressively, and check if it’s considered invasive in your region—it often is.

How deep do creeping jenny roots go?
Most of its root system is in the top 2-3 inches of soil, but rhizomes can go deeper, especially in loose soil. That’s why surface pulling sometimes misses parts.

Removing creeping jenny is a test of garden perseverance. By choosing the right method for your situation and committing to thorough follow-up, you can eliminate this invasive plant and protect your garden’s health. The key is to act consistently and not let any regrowth establish itself. With these steps, your garden can be free to grow what you actually want.