How To Get Rid Of Hostas

If you’re looking at an overgrown patch of hostas and wondering how to get rid of hostas, you’ve come to the right place. While these plants are beloved for their lush foliage, they can sometimes spread too aggressively or simply no longer fit your garden vision. Removing them is straightforward with the right approach, but it does require a bit of effort to do it thoroughly.

This guide will walk you through several simple removal methods, from quick digging to long-term smothering. We’ll cover the tools you need, the best times of year to tackle the job, and how to ensure they don’t come back. Let’s get started on reclaiming your garden space.

Hostas are perennial plants with dense, fibrous root systems called rhizomes. To remove them successfully, you need to target both the visible leaves and these underground roots. The method you choose depends on your timeline, physical ability, and plans for the area afterwards.

Essential Tools for Hosta Removal

Gathering the right tools before you start will make the job much easier. You don’t need anything fancy, just a few sturdy basics.

A sharp spade or garden shovel
A digging fork or garden fork
Heavy-duty gardening gloves
A pair of pruning shears or loppers
A tarp or wheelbarrow for debris
A garden hose or watering can (for the dry soil method)

Method 1: The Complete Dig-Out (Most Effective)

This is the most reliable way to remove hostas permanently and is best done in spring or fall when the soil is moist and workable. It’s a physical job, but it gives immediate results.

Cut back the foliage. Use your shears to chop all the leaves down to about 6 inches above the ground. This makes it easier to see the plant’s crown.
Water the area. If the soil is dry, give it a good soak the day before. This softens the earth and makes digging less strenuous.
Dig a wide perimeter. Insert your spade into the soil about 8-12 inches away from the center of the plant clump. Push the spade in deep, aiming to get under the root mass.
Lever and lift. Work your way around the plant, loosening the soil. Use the digging fork to pry under the root system. Once it’s loose, lift the entire clump out onto your tarp.
Shake and inspect. Shake off excess soil and carefully check the hole for any remaining white, fleshy roots. Remove every piece you can find to prevent regrowth.

Method 2: The Smothering Technique (Low Effort)

If you’re not in a hurry and prefer a less labor-intensive method, smothering is a great option. It uses no chemicals and improves your soil over time. This process takes a full season.

Cut the hostas down as low as possible to the ground.
Cover the entire area with a thick layer of cardboard or several layers of newspaper. Overlap the edges generously so no light can get through.
Soak the cardboard/newspaper layer thoroughly with water.
Top this with 4-6 inches of organic mulch, like wood chips, straw, or compost.
Wait. Leave the covering in place for an entire growing season. The lack of light and the decomposition process will kill the hostas and their roots. You can then plant directly into the new, rich soil layer.

Why Smothering Works So Well

This technique, often called sheet mulching or lasagna gardening, eliminates plants by completely blocking sunlight. Without light, the hostas cannot photosynthesize and their roots eventually exhaust their energy reserves. Meanwhile, the materials break down and attract beneficial worms.

Method 3: Using Herbicides (As a Last Resort)

Chemical control should be you’re last option, reserved for large, stubborn infestations where manual removal isn’t feasible. Always use herbicides carefully and according to the label.

Choose a systemic herbicide containing glyphosate. Systemic types are absorbed by the leaves and travel to the roots.
Apply in late summer or early fall when the plant is actively sending energy to its roots.
Spray carefully on a calm day to avoid drift onto desirable plants. You can also cut the leaves and paint the herbicide directly onto the fresh cuts for targeted application.
Be patient. It may take a few weeks to see the plant die back, and a second application might be necessary.

What to Do After Removal

Once the hostas are out, you need to decide what’s next for the area. Proper follow-up prevents unwanted regrowth.

For immediate replanting: If you used the dig-out method, you can plant new flowers or shrubs right away. Just amend the soil with some compost to refresh it.
Monitoring: Keep an eye on the spot for the next few months. If you see any new hosta shoots emerging, dig them out immediately while their roots are still small.
Disposal: Do not compost hosta roots or crowns unless you are certain your compost pile gets hot enough to kill them (over 140°F). It’s safer to bag them for yard waste collection or discard them in a dedicated, out-of-the-way corner to decompose.

Preventing Hosta Regrowth

The key to permanent removal is diligence. Hostas are tenacious, and even a small piece of rhizome left in the soil can sprout a new plant.

Always dig wider and deeper than you think you need to ensure you get the entire root network.
When using the smothering method, be patient and leave the covering in place for the full recommended time. Peeking or removing it early can let plants recover.
Consider installing a vertical root barrier if the hostas are spreading from a neighbor’s yard. Sink plastic or metal edging at least 10 inches deep along the property line.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors when trying to remove tough perennials. Here’s what to watch out for.

Digging when the soil is too dry. This makes it harder to get clean, complete root removal and you’ll likely leave pieces behind.
Not getting enough of the root. Hostas have thick, storage-rich roots; if you only remove the green tops, they will absolutely grow back.
Using the wrong herbicide. Non-systemic, contact-only herbicides will kill the leaves but not the roots, offering only a temporary solution.
Forgetting to water the area before digging. This simple step can cut your labor in half, seriously.

FAQ: Answers to Your Hosta Removal Questions

Will hostas grow back if you just cut them down?

Yes, absolutely. Cutting off only the leaves is like giving them a haircut. The energy stored in the roots will prompt new growth, often making the clump even denser. You must remove the roots to get rid of them for good.

What is the easiest way to remove hostas?

For immediate results, the dig-out method is the most straightforward. For the least physical effort spread over time, the smothering technique is the easiest on your back, though it requires patience.

How deep are hosta roots?

Hosta roots are relatively shallow, typically growing in the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. However, the crown (where the roots and stems meet) can be sizable, and the roots can spread outwards quite far from the center of the plant.

Can you kill hostas with vinegar?

Household vinegar may burn the top foliage, but it is a contact herbicide and will not kill the extensive root system. It’s not a reliable method for permanent removal and can harm your soil biology.

When is the best time to remove hosta plants?

Early spring or early fall are ideal. The soil is usually moist and easier to work, and the weather is cooler for gardening. In spring, the plants are easier to identify before other perennials fill in.

How do I stop hostas from spreading?

To control spreading, divide clumps every 3-4 years to manage their size. You can also install deep edging barriers around the planting area. Regular maintenance is the best way to keep them in check before they become a problem.

Removing hostas is a very manageable garden task with the right plan. Whether you choose to dig, smother, or use a careful chemical application, the key is persistence and thoroughness. By following these steps and monitoring the area, you can successfully clear the space and prepare it for it’s next chapter. Your garden is a canvas, and sometimes creating a new look means removing the old favorites to make room for something new.