When To Harvest Shallots – For Optimal Bulb Size

Knowing the perfect moment to pull your shallots from the ground is the key to a bountiful harvest of plump, flavorful bulbs. Getting the timing right for when to harvest shallots can feel tricky, but with a few clear signs to watch for, you’ll gather your crop with confidence.

This guide walks you through the simple visual cues and practical steps to ensure your shallots reach their optimal size and store well for months to come.

When to Harvest Shallots

Harvesting shallots isn’t about a specific date on the calendar. It’s about observing your plants development. The goal is to let the bulbs mature fully underground, maximizing their size, before they start to deteriorate or go to seed. Rushing the process gives you small bulbs; waiting too long risks rot or poor storage life.

The Top Signs Your Shallots Are Ready

Your shallots will tell you when they’re ready. Look for these three clear signals in your garden.

* Foliage Collapse: This is the main indicator. In late summer, the green, upright tops (foliage) will naturally begin to yellow, brown, and soften. They’ll flop over at the neck and start to dry out. This means the plant is diverting its final energy from the leaves down into the bulb.
* Bulb Formation: Gently brush away a little soil from the base of a plant. You should see the bulb has formed a distinct, rounded shape with a papery outer skin. The bulb should feel firm, not soft or squishy.
* Neck Softening: The point where the leaves meet the bulb (the neck) will become soft and weak. This is a natural part of the drying-down process and makes the tops easy to braid later.

The Harvest Process: Step-by-Step

Once you see the signs, follow these steps for a successful harvest that cures your shallots properly.

Step 1: Choose Your Timing (Weather is Key)

Plan your harvest around the weather. Aim for a period of dry, sunny days. If the soil is very wet from rain, your bulbs will be muddy and more prone to rot during curing. If forcast calls for rain, it’s better to harvest a day early than to leave them sitting in sodden ground.

Step 2: Loosen and Lift

Use a garden fork or spade to gently loosen the soil around the bulbs, being careful not to pierce them. Insert the tool about 6 inches away from the plant and lever it up to lift the cluster of bulbs and roots. Never pull on the tops alone, as they may break off.

Step 3: Initial Drying

Lay the lifted shallots in a single layer right on the garden bed, if the weather is dry. Let them sit there for a day or two. This allows the sun and wind to kill off any surface fungi and begin the drying process. This step is often overlooked but really helps.

Curing for Long-Term Storage

Curing is not optional—it’s essential. This process hardens the outer skins and seals the neck, preparing the bulbs for storage. Without proper curing, your shallots will rot quickly.

1. Move your shallots to a warm, dry, and well-ventilated place. A covered porch, garage, or shed with good air circulation is perfect.
2. Spread them out in a single layer on a rack, screen, or newspaper. Don’t pile them up.
3. Let them cure for about two to three weeks. The outer skins will become papery and rustle to the touch, the necks will dry completely, and the roots will shrivel.

Common Harvesting Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.

* Harvesting Too Early: If the tops are still mostly green, the bulbs haven’t reached there full size. Patience pays off with bigger shallots.
* Harvesting Too Late: If you leave bulbs in wet ground after the tops have completely died back, they can start to rot or sprout again. They also become more susceptible to pests.
* Damaging Bulbs During Lifting: Stabbing a bulb with your fork creates a wound that invites decay. Always loosen the soil from the side.
* Skipping the Curing Process: Putting uncured shallots in a bag or bin is a recipe for mold. Always complete the full curing time.
* Washing the Bulbs: Never wash shallots before curing or storage. Brush off dry soil instead. Moisture is the enemy of storage longevity.

Storing Your Harvested Shallots

After curing, your shallots are ready for storage. Trim off the dried roots and cut the tops, leaving about an inch of stem (or leave them long for braiding). Choose a storage method that prioritizes cool, dry, and dark conditions.

* Mesh Bags or Netted Baskets: These provide excellent airflow. Hang them in a cool pantry or cellar.
* Braids: If you left the tops long, braiding them is a attractive and functional storage method.
* Single Layer in Boxes: Use shallow cardboard boxes with some holes punched for ventilation.

Check your stored shallots every few weeks and remove any that show signs of softness or sprouting. Properly cured and stored, your harvest can last up to 10 or even 12 months.

FAQ: Your Shallot Harvest Questions Answered

How long do shallots take to grow?
Shallots typically need 90 to 120 days from planting to harvest. The timing depends on whether you plant sets in fall or spring and your local climate.

Can you harvest shallots early as green shallots?
Yes, you can! You can thin your shallot patch early in the season and use the young plants, greens and all, like a robust green onion. This gives the remaining plants more space to grow bigger bulbs.

What if my shallot tops don’t fall over?
In some climates or with certain varieties, tops may not completely flop. If most of the top has yellowed and died back by late summer, it’s safe to harvest. The neck will still be soft.

Why are my shallots so small?
Small bulbs can result from planting too late, overcrowding, insufficient nutrients (especially phosphorus), or harvesting before full maturity. They also need plenty of sun.

Can I leave shallots in the ground over winter?
If you planted in fall for a spring harvest, yes. They are quite hardy. For a summer-planted crop, however, you must harvest them in late summer/autumn before frost.

What’s the difference between harvesting onions and shallots?
The process is very similar. Shallots often mature a bit earlier than many onion varieties and are more likely to be grown from sets. The signs of readiness and curing steps are identical.

Harvesting shallots at the right moment is a satisfying conclusion to a seasons work. By watching for those key signals in the garden and taking the time to cure them thoroughly, you’ll be rewarded with a generous supply of homegrown shallots that will enhance your cooking for many months. The flavor of a properly matured and stored shallot is truly superior, making the wait well worth it.