What To Do When Succulents Get Too Tall

Seeing your succulents get too tall can be a bit worrying. You might wonder if you’ve done something wrong or if the plant is in trouble. Don’t worry, it’s a very common issue, and knowing what to do when succulents get too tall is the first step to fixing it. This stretching process is called etiolation, and it means your plant is simply reaching for more light. With a few simple steps, you can prune it back, propagate the cuttings, and end up with even more healthy plants.

The core solution involves just two main actions: pruning and adjusting light. Pruning corrects the current leggy growth, and improving light prevents it from happening again. It’s a straightforward process that even new gardeners can handle with confidence.

Why Do Succulents Become Leggy and Tall?

Succulents are designed to thrive in bright, direct sunlight. When they don’t get enough, they start to etiolate. They stretch their stems, growing taller quickly to try and find a stronger light source. The spaces between the leaves become wider, the stem may weaken, and the plant loses its compact, rosette shape.

Other signs of etiolation include:

Pale or faded leaf color (losing that vibrant green, red, or purple hue).
Leaves pointing downward instead of upward or outward.
A stem that seems thin and fragile compared to the top-heavy plant.

It’s important to note that some natural upward growth is normal, but a dramatic, stretched appearance is a clear signal.

What You’ll Need for Pruning

Gathering the right tools before you start makes the process smooth. You won’t need much.

Sharp, Clean Pruners or Scissors: Use a sharp knife, pruning shears, or even sterile scissors. Clean cuts heal faster and reduce the risk of infection.
Rubbing Alcohol: To disinfect your cutting tool before and after use.
A Paper Towel: For wiping tools and drying cuttings.
Fresh Potting Mix: Well-draining cactus or succulent soil is essential for repotting.
New Pots (Optional): For planting your cuttings and the original stem.

Step-by-Step Pruning Guide

Follow these steps to successfully prune your tall succulent.

Plan Your Cut: Look at your leggy stem. Decide where you want to make the cut. Ideally, leave about an inch or two of stem on the original plant, and ensure the top part you cut off has a nice rosette and a decent length of stem (1-3 inches is good).
Disinfect and Cut: Wipe your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol. Make a clean, straight cut through the stem at your chosen point. Try not to crush the stem as you cut.
Let the Cuts Callous: This is the most crucial step! Place both the beheaded top cutting and the base stump in a dry, shaded spot out of direct sun. Leave them for 3-7 days until the cut ends dry out and form a hard callous. This prevents rot when you plant or water them.
Plant the Top Cutting: Once calloused, you can plant the top rosette in dry succulent soil. Don’t water it for about a week to allow roots to start seeking moisture. Then, water lightly.
Care for the Original Stump: Leave the base plant in its original pot. Place it in good light. Soon, you should see new baby rosettes (called “pups”) sprouting from around the cut stem or from the soil line.

How to Propagate from Leaves

Don’t throw away the healthy leaves from the stem you removed! You can grow entirely new plants from them. This process takes patience but is very rewarding.

Gently Twist Off Leaves: Carefully twist plump, healthy leaves from the leftover stem. Ensure you get the entire base of the leaf without tearing it.
Let Them Callous: Lay the leaves on a dry paper towel out of direct sun for a few days until the broken end callouses over.
Lay on Soil: Place the calloused leaves on top of dry succulent soil. Do not bury them.
Wait for Magic: Mist the soil very lightly every few days once you see tiny pink roots or a new baby plant forming. The original leaf will eventually shrivel up as the new plant takes over.

Fixing the Light Problem

Pruning fixes the symptom, but light adjustment fixes the cause. After pruning, your plants need more light to stay compact.

South or West-Facing Windows: These provide the strongest light indoors. Move your plants as close to the window as possible without touching cold glass in winter.
Rotate Your Pots: Give each pot a quarter turn every time you water. This ensures all sides of the plant get even light and prevents it from leaning.
Consider a Grow Light: If you don’t have a bright window, a simple LED grow light is a great investment. Run it for 12-14 hours a day, placed a few inches above the plants.
Acclimate to Outdoor Sun: If moving plants outside for summer, do it gradually. Start in full shade, then move to partial sun over two weeks to prevent sunburn.

Post-Pruning Care Tips

Your plants need a little extra attention after the procedure to recover well.

Hold Off on Watering: As mentioned, wait to water cuttings and the base stump. For established plants, resume your normal “soak and dry” method only when the soil is completely dry.
Monitor for Stress: Some leaf reabsorption (bottom leaves drying up) is normal. Watch for signs of rot, like black, mushy stems, which mean it’s too wet.
Be Patient with Growth: New growth on the stump or roots on cuttings can take several weeks. Resist the urge to overwater or move the plant constantly.
Fertilize Sparingly: Use a diluted, balanced fertilizer only during the active growing season (spring and summer), and not right after pruning. Wait until you see solid new growth.

Preventing Future Leggy Growth

Once you’ve fixed the problem, keep your succulents happy and compact with these habits.

Consistent, Strong Light: This is the number one rule. Observe your plants regularly for early signs of stretching.
Water Deeply but Infrequently: Always water until it runs out the drainage hole, then let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Overwatering can cause weak growth.
Use the Right Soil: Regular potting soil holds too much moisture. Always use a gritty, fast-draining mix meant for cacti and succulents.
Choose Compact Varieties: Some succulents, like many Echeverias, stay compact naturally. Others, like certain Sedums, are naturally trailing. Know your plant’s growth habit.

FAQ: Common Questions About Leggy Succulents

Can I just bury the long stem deeper in the soil?

It’s not recommended. Burying a long, leafy stem can lead to rot because the old leaves will be trapped in moist soil. It’s much safer to cut and re-root the top part.

My succulent is tall but still looks healthy. Should I still prune it?

If it’s getting unstable or you simply prefer a more compact look, pruning is fine. You can also just give it more light and let it grow if you like its unique, tall shape. Just know it might need support eventually.

How long does it take for cuttings to root?

It varies, but typically you’ll see new roots from a stem cutting in 2-4 weeks. Leaf propagations take longer, often several months to form a sizable pup.

What if the cut stem starts to rot?

If the base stump gets mushy, you may need to cut a bit higher up on the stem, above the rot, and let it callous again. Ensure the soil is dry and you’re not watering too soon.

Is it too late to save a very tall, bent succulent?

It’s rarely too late! Even if the stem is bent, you can still cut it. You might just have a shorter cutting or need to make multiple cuts along the stem to propagate.

Dealing with a succulent that’s gotten too tall is a normal part of their care. With a clean cut, some patience for callousing, and a brighter spot for the future, you can turn one leggy plant into several beautiful, compact ones. Remember, pruning is not a sign of failure—it’s a useful tool for maintaining and multiplying your succulent collection. Just keep an eye on their light, and you’ll keep them looking their best.