Philodendron Lacerum

If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant that stands out from the common Monstera or Pothos, let me introduce you to the philodendron lacerum. This rare tropical houseplant is a stunning addition for any collector who appreciates dramatic foliage and a bit of a challenge.

Its large, deeply lobed leaves have a unique, almost skeletal appearance that adds instant jungle vibes to your space. While not the easiest plant to find, its striking look makes the search worthwhile for dedicated plant lovers.

Native to the Caribbean islands like Hispaniola, the Philodendron lacerum is a climbing aroid. In its natural habitat, it uses its aerial roots to ascend trees towards the canopy light.

Indoors, it will appreciate a sturdy moss pole or totem to climb. The mature leaves are its main attraction—they become deeply pinnate, meaning they split into multiple finger-like lobes with “lacerated” edges, hence the name ‘lacerum’.

Why It’s Considered Rare

You won’t typically find this plant at your local garden center. Its rarity comes from a few key factors:

Limited Propagation: It grows slower than many common philodendrons, so large-scale nurseries don’t produce it as quickly.
Specific Demand: It appeals mainly to intermediate or advanced hobbyist, creating a smaller market.
Growing Requirements: It needs consistent warmth and humidity to truly thrive, which can be a barrier for some growers.

Finding and Purchasing Your Plant

Because it’s rare, you’ll need to know where to look. Your best bets are specialized online plant shops, auctions on plant enthusiast forums, or local plant swaps. Always check the seller’s reviews.

When you find one, inspect the listing photos closely for signs of pest or good root health. Be prepared for a higher price tag than a typical houseplant—this is normal for rare varieties.

What to Look For in a Healthy Plant

Firm stems with no mushy spots.
Leaves that are mostly intact, with minimal mechanical damage.
New growth emerging from the center (a sign of vitality).
Clear description of the root system’s health.

Ideal Growing Conditions

To keep your Philodendron lacerum happy, you’ll need to mimic its tropical origins. Getting the basics right prevents most problems.

Light Needs

This plant prefers bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight under a forest canopy. An east-facing window is often perfect.

Too little light: Leads to leggy growth, smaller leaves, and loss of the deep lobe formation.
Too much direct sun: Will scorch and yellow the beautiful foliage.

Temperature & Humidity

As a tropical plant, it dislikes the cold. Aim to keep your home between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid placing it near drafty windows or air conditioning vents.

Humidity is crucial. This plant thrives in 60% humidity or higher. If your home is dry, consider these solutions:

Use a humidifier placed near the plant (most effective method).
Set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.
Group it together with other humidity-loving plants.

Potting Mix and Repotting

A well-draining, airy mix is non-negotiable. Philodendron lacerum’s roots need oxygen and hate sitting in soggy soil. You can make a great mix yourself.

Recommended DIY Potting Mix

2 parts high-quality potting soil
1 part orchid bark (for aeration)
1 part perlite or pumice (for drainage)
A handful of horticultural charcoal (optional, to keep mix fresh)

Repot only when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot or growing out the drainage holes. This is typically every 1-2 years. Only size up the pot by 1-2 inches to prevent excess wet soil.

Watering and Feeding Schedule

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your plant. The goal is consistently moist but never waterlogged soil.

How to Water Correctly

Check the soil moisture first. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil.
If the top 2 inches feel dry, it’s time to water.
Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes.
Empty the saucer underneath after 15 minutes so the pot doesn’t sit in water.

In winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows and soil takes longer to dry. Your plant will drink less when the days are shorter.

Fertilizing for Best Growth

Feed your philodendron lacerum during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength every 4-6 weeks.

There’s no need to fertilize in the fall and winter. The plant is resting and won’t use the extra nutrients, which can actually build up and harm the roots.

Pruning and Training on a Support

This is a climbing philodendron. Providing a moss pole or cedar plank will encourage larger, more mature leaf development. Attach the stems gently using soft plant ties or velcro.

Pruning is mainly for removing any yellowing or damaged leaves. You can also trim back leggy growth if you want a bushier appearance. Always use clean, sharp scissors to make clean cuts.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to identify and fix them.

Yellowing Leaves

This is often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture habits and ensure the pot drains well. Sometimes, yellow leaves at the bottom are just old leaves dying off naturally.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges

Low humidity is the usual culprit. Increase the moisture in the air around your plant. It could also be from too much direct sun or a buildup of salts from tap water—try using filtered or rainwater.

Pests to Watch For

Like many houseplants, it can attract common pests. Inspect the undersides of leaves regularly.

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or use insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white cottony masses. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Scale: Hard, brown bumps on stems/leaves. Scrape off gently and treat with horticultural oil.

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

The best way to propagate your rare Philodendron lacerum is through stem cuttings. It’s a rewarding process.

Identify a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots emerge) and 1-2 leaves.
Using clean shears, cut just below a node.
You can root the cutting in water or moist sphagnum moss.
If using water, place the node in the water, keeping the leaf dry. Change the water weekly.
Once roots are a few inches long (in a few weeks), pot it up in your aroid mix.
If using moss, keep it consistently moist and enclosed in a clear bag for humidity until roots form.

FAQ Section

Is the Philodendron lacerum toxic to pets?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious pets.

How fast does Philodendron lacerum grow?

Growth speed depends on conditions. With ideal light, warmth, and humidity, you can expect moderate growth, especially during the spring and summer months. It’s not the fastest grower.

Why are the new leaves on my plant not splitting?

Juvenile leaves often don’t show the characteristic lobes. As the plant matures and climbs a support, the new leaves will become more lacerated. Ensure it has enough bright indirect light too.

Can I grow Philodendron lacerum in a terrarium?

While it loves humidity, its mature size makes it impractical for most terrariums. It’s better suited as a potted plant with a moss pole in a room with high humidity.

What’s the difference between Philodendron lacerum and Philodendron radiatum?

They look similar! Philodendron lacerum tends to have thinner, more “lacerated” leaf segments and a different vein pattern. The radiatum’s lobes are usually broader and more robust. True identification often requires seeing a mature, flowering plant.

Caring for a Philodendron lacerum is a rewarding experience that brings a piece of the tropical forest into you’re home. Its unique foliage is a constant source of fascination. By providing the right balance of light, warmth, and moisture, you’ll be able to enjoy this rare beauty for years to come. Remember, patience is key—watch for its cues, adjust your care as needed, and you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular, healthy climber.