What Is Eating My Tomatoes

You’ve carefully nurtured your tomato plants, and now something is feasting on them. It’s frustrating to see holes in leaves or half-eaten fruit. Let’s figure out what is eating my tomatoes. This guide will help you identify the common culprits and give you practical solutions to protect your harvest.

Many pests love tomatoes as much as we do. The damage they leave behind is your first clue. By looking closely at the leaves, stems, and fruit, you can usually pinpoint the offender. Correct identification is the key to choosing the right fix.

Chewing Pests: Holes in Leaves and Fruit

These pests take big, noticeable bites. You’ll see irregular holes, missing chunks, or entire leaves stripped away.

Tomato Hornworms

These are the heavyweight champions of tomato destruction. They are large, green caterpillars with white markings and a horn on their rear.

Signs: Severe defoliation (entire branches eaten), dark green droppings on leaves, and sometimes gouges in fruit.
Control: Hand-pick them off plants. They are camoflauged but look for the damage first. You can also use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a natural bacterial spray.

Cutworms

These pests attack at soil level, often cutting young seedlings right off. They hide in the dirt during the day.

Signs: Seedlings or young plants severed at the stem overnight.
Control: Place cardboard collars around new transplants, pushing them an inch into the soil. Till the soil in fall to expose pupae.

Slugs and Snails

These slimy feeders love moist conditions and come out at night or on cloudy days.

Signs: Large, ragged holes in leaves and fruit, with a tell-tale silvery slime trail nearby.
Control: Set out beer traps or use iron phosphate-based baits. Keep the garden free of debris where they hide.

Sucking Pests: Distorted Growth and Spots

These insects pierce plants and suck out sap. This weakens the plant and can spread disease.

Aphids

Tiny, pear-shaped insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves. They can be green, black, or pink.

Signs: Curled, sticky leaves (from honeydew), and stunted growth. Ants farming them for honeydew is another clue.
Control: A strong blast of water knocks them off. Introduce ladybugs or lacewings. Use insecticidal soap for heavy infestations.

Whiteflies

Tiny, white, moth-like insects that swarm when the plant is disturbed.

Signs: Yellowing, sticky leaves, and poor plant vigor. Sooty mold often grows on the honeydew.
Control: Yellow sticky traps catch adults. Insecticidal soap or neem oil treatments are effective on the nymphs.

Spider Mites

Nearly microscopic pests that thrive in hot, dry conditions. They are more common in greenhouses.

Signs: Fine, silvery webbing on leaf undersides, stippled yellow leaves that may turn bronze and drop.
Control: Increase humidity with regular misting. Spray plants thoroughly with water or use miticides like horticultural oil.

Stink Bugs and Leaf-Footed Bugs

Shield-shaped bugs that pierce fruit with their needle-like mouthparts.

Signs: Yellow, cloudy blotches on ripening fruit, sometimes with hard white spots underneath the skin.
Control: Hand-pick adults and egg masses. Keep the garden clean of weeds they breed in. Use row covers early in the season.

Fruit-Feeding Pests: Direct Damage to Tomatoes

These pests target the fruit itself, making them especially maddening.

Tomato Fruitworms (Corn Earworms)

These caterpillars burrow into the fruit, often near the stem.

Signs: A neat, round hole entry point on the fruit, with messy, wet frass inside. They usally only damage one fruit before moving to the next.
Control: Apply Bt or spinosad sprays. Check plants frequently and remove any infected fruit immediately.

Squirrels, Birds, and Raccoons

Vertebrate pests can take single bites from many fruits or steal them entirely.

Signs: Partially eaten fruit, often with clean cuts (squirrels/birds) or larger shredding (raccoons). Fruits may be missing entirely.
Control: Use physical barriers like bird netting or cages. Harvest fruit as soon as it begins to blush to ripen indoors.

How to Diagnose the Problem: A Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps to become a garden detective.

Inspect the Damage Time: Check plants early in the morning or at dusk. Many pests are most active then.
Look at the Location: Is damage on leaves, stems, or fruit? Is it at the top or bottom of the plant?
Examine the Details: Are edges chewed or are there holes? Is there webbing, slime, or insects underneath leaves?
Check the Soil: Look for cutworms or signs of burrowing near the base.
Identify the Insect: Use a magnifying glass to see small pests like mites or aphid nymphs.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

Stopping pests before they start is easier than fighting an infestation.

Crop Rotation: Don’t plant tomatoes in the same spot each year. This disrupts pest life cycles in the soil.
Clean Garden Hygiene: Remove plant debris in the fall where pests overwinter. Weed regularly.
Encourage Beneficials: Plant flowers like marigolds, dill, and yarrow to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.
Use Row Covers: Lightweight fabric covers protect young plants from flying insects. Remember to remove them when flowers need pollinating.
Choose Resistant Varieties: Some tomato varieties have resistance to certain pests and diseases. Check seed catalogs.

Organic and Low-Impact Control Methods

When pests appear, try these methods first before reaching for harsh chemicals.

Hand-Picking: Very effective for large pests like hornworms and stink bugs. Drop them into soapy water.
Water Spray: A strong jet of water dislodges aphids, mites, and young whiteflies.
Insecticidal Soap & Neem Oil: These suffocate soft-bodied insects. They must contact the pest directly. Apply in the early evening to avoid harming bees.
Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis): A natural bacteria that specifically targets caterpillars when they eat treated leaves. It’s safe for other insects.
Diatomaceous Earth: A fine powder that damages the exteriors of crawling insects. Sprinkle around the base of plants. Reapply after rain.

FAQ: Common Questions About Tomato Pests

What are tiny holes in tomato leaves?
Tiny, shot-like holes are often from flea beetles. They are small, jumping beetles. Use row covers on young plants or apply diatomaceous earth.

Why do my tomatoes have black spots on the bottom?
That’s likely blossom end rot, not a pest. It’s caused by calcium deficiency and irregular watering. Ensure consistent soil moisture.

What’s making my tomato plant leaves curl?
Leaf curl can be from aphids, herbicide drift, or even a viral disease. Check for insects first. If none, it may be environmental.

How can I keep squirrels from eating my tomatoes?
Physical barriers are best. Surround plants with wire cages or use bird netting. Some gardeners have success with motion-activated sprinklers.

Are there any plants that repel tomato pests?
Companion planting can help. Basil may repel some insects, and marigolds are known to deter nematodes in the soil. Strong-smelling herbs can confuse pests looking for there host plant.

Finding pests on your tomatoes is never fun, but you can manage them. Start by identifying the specific damage. Then, choose a targeted, gentle control method. With a little observation and these strategies, you can reclaim your harvest and enjoy those homegrown tomatoes all season long.