Monstera Laniata Vs Lechleriana

If you’re a fan of split-leaf philos, you might find yourself comparing Monstera Laniata vs Lechleriana. Both are stunning tropical plants with impressive fenestrations, but telling them apart is key to giving them the right care. This guide will help you spot the differences and grow them successfully.

Their similar looks can confuse even experienced plant lovers. We’ll look at leaf shape, growth habits, and what each one needs to thrive in your home. You’ll be able to identify them with confidence after reading this.

This is the core comparison. At first glance, these two Monsteras can look like twins. They both have those beautiful holes and splits we love. But when you know what to look for, the distinctions become clear. The main differences lie in the leaf texture, the pattern of fenestrations, and their overall growth form.

Getting the ID right matters. It affects how you water, where you place the plant, and what kind of support it will need. Let’s break down each plant individually first.

Getting to Know Monstera Lechleriana

Monstera Lechleriana is a elegant climber native to parts of South America. It’s known for its relatively large, flat leaves. The leaves are a deep, matte green and feel smooth to the touch. They are not as glossy as some other Monstera varieties.

Its fenestrations (the holes and splits) are a bit more predictable. The inner holes tend to appear in neat rows along the midrib before the leaf develops its larger splits. As it matures, the leaves can get quite big, often staying more intact around the edges compared to its laniata cousin.

Leaf Texture: Matte, smooth surface.
Fenestration Pattern: Holes often appear in orderly rows; splits are generous but leaf edge remains more connected.
Growth Habit: A strong vertical climber that appreciates a sturdy moss pole.
Leaf Size: Mature leaves can reach over 2 feet in length in ideal conditions.

Identifying Monstera Laniata

Monstera Laniata is actually a subspecies of Monstera adansonii, not Lechleriana. This is a crucial botanical distinction. It’s famous for its highly fenestrated leaves that can become almost more hole than leaf. The texture is where you’ll notice a major difference immediately.

Run your finger across a Laniata leaf. You’ll feel a pronounced texture. The leaves are often described as having a “bumpy” or “rugose” surface due to raised veins. They are also typically thinner and more papery than Lechleriana’s sturdier leaves.

Leaf Texture: Rugose, textured, with raised veins; thinner leaf blade.
Fenestration Pattern: Extremely fenestrated, with holes often extending all the way to the leaf margin, creating a lacy effect.
Growth Habit: A vigorous, trailing or climbing vine. It grows quickly and can get very long.
Leaf Size: Leaves are generally smaller than mature Lechleriana, but the vine itself can grow many feet long.

Side-by-Side Comparison Chart

Here’s a quick reference to keep the differences straight.

Scientific Name: Laniata: Monstera adansonii ssp. laniata. Lechleriana: Monstera lechleriana.
Leaf Feel: Laniata: Textured, bumpy. Lechleriana: Smooth, matte.
Fenestration Style: Laniata: Holes go to the edge, very lacy. Lechleriana: Holes in rows, larger connected leaf portions.
Leaf Thickness: Laniata: Thinner, more delicate. Lechleriana: Thicker, more robust.
Growth Speed: Laniata: Very fast-growing. Lechleriana: Moderately fast.
Mature Form: Laniata: Long, trailing vine. Lechleriana: Upright, climbing tree-like form.

Care Requirements: Similarities and Differences

Both plants share the general care profile of tropical Monsteras. They need bright, indirect light, well-draining soil, and enjoy humidity. However, their specific needs have subtle variations due to their natural habits.

Light Needs

Both plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Direct sun can scorch their leaves. A spot near an east or north-facing window is ideal, or a few feet back from a south or west window.

Lechleriana, with its thicker leaves, can sometimes tolerate slightly lower light levels than Laniata. The highly fenestrated leaves of the Laniata are designed to capture dappled light, so providing ample indirect light ensures it maintains its spectacular holey look.

Watering and Soil

This is where texture gives a hint. The thinner leaves of Laniata mean it can be slightly more sensitive to underwatering. Its soil should be kept consistently moist but never soggy. Check the top inch of soil.

Lechleriana’s thicker leaves allow it to retain a bit more water. You can let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. For both, a chunky, airy aroid mix is perfect. Combine potting soil with orchid bark, perlite, and a handful of horticultural charcoal for best results.

Humidity and Temperature

As tropical plants, they both appreciate humidity above 50%. Laniata, with its delicate leaves, is especially appreciative of higher humidity and might get slight brown edges if the air is too dry. A humidifier or pebble tray can help.

Keep them in temperatures between 65°F and 85°F. Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature drops, which can shock the plants. They really don’t like the cold at all.

Support and Pruning

Their growth habits dictate their support needs. Lechleriana is a natural upward climber. It will reward you with larger leaves if given a tall, moist moss pole to attach its aerial roots to.

Laniata is more flexible. It can be grown on a moss pole for larger leaves, or allowed to trail beautifully from a hanging basket. Its fast growth means you might need to prune it more often to keep it managable. Simply cut just above a leaf node.

Common Problems and Solutions

Yellow leaves often point to overwatering. Check your soil moisture first. Brown, crispy edges usually mean low humidity or underwatering. Increase humidity or check your watering frequency.

Leggy growth with small leaves means the plant needs more light. Move it to a brighter location. A lack of fenestrations on new leaves is also a classic sign of insufficent light. Remember, these plants need good light to produce those characteristic splits and holes.

Propagation Tips for Both Plants

You can propagate both Monsteras easily through stem cuttings. It’s a great way to share plants with friends or fill out your own pot. Here’s how to do it.

Identify a healthy stem with at least one node (the brown, bumpy ring where leaves and roots emerge).
Using clean shears, cut about a quarter-inch below the node.
Place the cutting in water or moist sphagnum moss, ensuring the node is submerged or buried.
Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water weekly if using that method.
Once roots are a few inches long (usually in 3-6 weeks), pot it up in your aroid soil mix.

Which One is Right for You?

Choose Monstera Lechleriana if you want a statement upright plant with large, elegant leaves. It’s perfect if you have space for a moss pole and prefer a more structural, tree-like plant in your collection. Its care is very straightforward for a Monstera lover.

Choose Monstera Laniata if you adore highly textured, lacy foliage and a fast-growing vine. It’s excellent for a high shelf where it can cascade down, or if you enjoy the process of training a plant on a pole. Be prepared for more frequent watering and humidity attention.

FAQ Section

Are Monstera laniata and lechleriana the same?

No, they are different species. Laniata is a subspecies of Monstera adansonii, while Lechleriana is its own distinct species. Their care and appearance have notable differences.

Which is more rare, Monstera laniata or lechleriana?

Both have become more available, but Lechleriana is often considered slightly less common in general plant shops than the popular Laniata. However, availability can vary greatly by region and time.

How can I tell my Monstera laniata apart from a regular adansonii?

The key is the extreme fenestration and textured leaves. Laniata has much more dramatic holes that go to the leaf edge, and its leaf surface is bumpy, while standard adansonii is smoother with less aggressive holes.

Do both plants need a moss pole?

Lechleriana benefits greatly from a moss pole to support its upright growth and encourage large leaves. Laniata can use one for bigger leaves but also grows very well as a trailing plant without one.

Why are my new leaves not having holes?

This is most commonly due to inadequate light. Both plants need plenty of bright, indirect light to develop their signature fenestrations. Young leaves also often start solid and develop splits as they harden off.

With this knowledge, you can confidently distinguish between these two beautiful plants. Paying attention to leaf texture and growth pattern is the simplest way to start. Providing the right care based on their individual needs will ensure they thrive and show off their unique tropical foliage in your home for years to come.