Fiddle Leaf Fig Outdoors

So you’re thinking about moving your fiddle leaf fig outdoors? That’s a fantastic idea, and with the right approach, your plant can truly flourish. The key to a fiddle leaf fig outdoors is understanding its love for bright, but not harsh, light. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make that transition a success, ensuring your plant thrives in its new environment.

Many people keep these popular plants inside year-round. But giving them a summer vacation outside can lead to explosive growth and stunningly large, healthy leaves. It mimics their natural habitat more closely. However, you can’t just move it from your living room to the patio in one step.

Acclimating your plant slowly is the single most important step. This process, called hardening off, prevents sunburn and shock. Here’s how to do it right.

How to Acclimate Your Fiddle Leaf Fig to Outdoor Sun

Start this process in late spring or early summer when nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C). Sudden cold is a major enemy.

Week 1: Deep Shade. Place your plant in a spot that receives only dappled sunlight or full shade for the entire day. Leave it there for 3-4 hours initially, then bring it back inside. Gradually increase the time over the week.
Week 2: Morning Sun. Move the plant to a location that gets gentle morning sun for 1-2 hours, then is in shade for the rest of the day. Again, slowly increase the duration.
Week 3: Extended Light. Allow it to enjoy that morning sun for longer, perhaps 3-4 hours. You can also experiment with a spot that gets very bright, indirect light all day.
Week 4: Final Spot. If you want your plant in a spot with some direct afternoon sun, this is the time to introduce it. Start with just 30-60 minutes of that stronger light and monitor the leaves closely.

Throughout this process, watch for signs of stress:

Brown, crispy spots on leaves (sunburn).
Yellowing leaves (could be sun stress or overwatering).
Dropping leaves (often a sign of shock).

If you see any of these, move the plant back to a shadier location for a few days. Rushing this process is the biggest mistake you can make. A sunburned leaf will not recover it’s scarred for life.

Once fully acclimated, your fiddle leaf fig will revel in a bright outdoor setting. The goal is to find a “Goldilocks” zone: not too shady, not too harsh. Think about the light under a tall tree canopy in a tropical forest.

An ideal location provides:

Bright, Filtered Light: This is the best. It means strong ambient light all day, with perhaps only brief, fleeting moments of direct sun.
Gentle Morning Sun: East-facing exposures are perfect. The sun is less intense in the morning, providing energy without the burn.
Protection from Harsh Afternoon Sun: The sun from about 11am to 4pm in the summer is the most intense. Direct exposure during these hours, especially in hot climates, will likely cause damage.

Choosing the Perfect Container and Soil

Your pot choice is critical for outdoor health. It must have excellent drainage. Fiddle leaf figs despise “wet feet,” meaning soggy roots.

Choose a pot with multiple drainage holes. A lightweight, porous material like terracotta is excellent because it allows the soil to breathe and dry out more evenly. Plastic pots are fine too, but you must be more careful not to overwater.

The soil mix is just as important. A standard indoor potting mix often retains to much moisture for outdoor conditions where humidity and rain are factors. Create a better mix by amending it:

2 parts high-quality potting soil.
1 part perlite or pumice for aeration.
1 part orchid bark or coconut coir for chunkiness and drainage.

This creates a fast-draining, airy environment that prevents root rot. Repotting before moving the plant outside is a great opportunity to check the roots and refresh the soil.

Watering and Feeding Schedule Outside

Outdoor watering is completely different from your indoor routine. Wind, sun, and heat will dry out the soil much faster. You will likely need to water significantly more often.

The Rule: Water deeply when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry. Stick your finger in the soil to check. Don’t rely on a schedule.

In peak summer heat, this might mean watering every 3-4 days. During a cooler, cloudy week, it might be every 7-10 days. Always water until it runs freely out the bottom drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.

Feeding is crucial for supporting all that new growth. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like a 3-1-2 N-P-K ratio) every 4-6 weeks during the growing season (spring through early fall). Do not fertilize in late fall or winter, as the plant’s growth slows.

An occasional dose of a fertilizer with micronutrients can be beneficial. This supports overall leaf health and color. Always follow the label instructions, and when in doubt, dilute it a bit more. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots.

Managing Pests and Problems

Being outdoors opens up your plant to a few pests, but they are usually easy to manage. Regular inspection is your best defense. Check the undersides of leaves and along stems weekly.

Spider Mites: These tiny pests love hot, dry conditions. Look for fine webbing and stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves. Blast them off with a strong stream of water or use insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: Look like small bits of white cotton. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove them instantly.
Aphids: Small green or black bugs that cluster on new growth. A strong water spray or insecticidal soap works well.
Scale: Appear as small, brown, bumpy shells stuck to stems and leaves. Scrape them off or use horticultural oil.

Fungal issues can also arise from overhead watering or very rainy periods. To prevent this, try to water at the base of the plant, keeping the leaves dry. Good air circulation around your plant is also key.

What to Do About Leaf Drop

Some leaf drop is normal during the acclimation period as the plant adjusts. However, significant leaf drop usually signals a problem.

Sudden, massive leaf drop: Often caused by shock (from moving too fast) or a drastic change in temperature.
Lower leaf drop: Can be due to overwatering, underwatering, or insufficient light.
Leaf drop with yellowing: Frequently points to overwatering and potential root rot.

When and How to Bring Your Plant Back Inside

This is a crucial and often overlooked step. You must bring your fiddle leaf fig back indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). For most regions, this is in early fall.

Just like when moving it outside, you need to reverse-acclimate it to lower indoor light levels. About two weeks before the planned move, start shifting it to a shadier spot outdoors. This helps it adjust gradually.

Before bringing it inside, give it a thorough pest check. Look under leaves, along stems, and even in the top layer of soil. You might want to treat it preemptively with a gentle insecticidal soap spray and rinse it off after to avoid bringing any bugs inside.

Once inside, place it in the brightest spot you have. It will likely go through another period of adjustment and may drop a few leaves. This is normal. Reduce watering frequency immediately, as the soil will take much longer to dry out indoors.

Long-Term Benefits of Summering Outdoors

Why go through all this trouble? The benefits are very clear. A summer spent outdoors typically results in:

Faster Growth: The ideal light and humidity encourage the plant to put out new leaves more frequently.
Larger Leaves: New leaves grown in optimal conditions are often bigger and more robust than those grown indoors.
Stronger Stem: Exposure to gentle breezes helps thicken the trunk and stems, making the plant sturdier.
Overall Health: The cycle of growth and recovery makes the plant more resilient in the long run.

It’s a way to supercharge your plant’s health for the rest of the year. The stronger it is when it comes back inside, the better it will handle the lower-light winter months.

Climate Considerations and Alternatives

If you live in a climate with very intense, dry heat (like the Southwest US), your plant will need extra protection. Strong afternoon sun is almost always a no-go. Aim for a spot with bright shade all day, perhaps on a covered north-facing patio or under a dense shade cloth.

In very humid climates (like the Southeast US), ensure exceptional air circulation to ward off fungal issues. You might also need to space out watering more if rain is frequent.

For those in cooler, cloudier climates, you might be able to give your plant more direct sun exposure, as the intensity is lower. Still, follow the acclimation process and watch for burning.

If moving the whole plant outside isn’t feasible, consider just giving it an outdoor “shower” occasionally. On a warm day, take it outside, water it thoroughly with the hose (on a gentle setting), let it drip dry, and bring it back in. This cleans the leaves and provides a humidity boost.

FAQ Section

Can a fiddle leaf fig live outside in full sun?
Generally, no. While they love bright light, intense, direct afternoon sun will usually scorch their leaves. They are adapted to bright, filtered light under a canopy.

How long can I leave my fiddle leaf fig outside?
From late spring to early fall, as long as temperatures stay above 50°F at night. The exact timeline depends on your local climate.

What temperature is too cold for a fiddle leaf fig outdoors?
Anything below 50°F (10°C) is risky. They are tropical plants and can suffer damage from chilling temperatures. Frost will kill them.

Should I put my indoor fiddle leaf fig outside?
Yes, if you can provide the right bright-but-protected spot and follow the slow acclimation process. It’s one of the best things you can do for its growth.

Why are the leaves on my outdoor fiddle leaf fig turning brown?
Brown, crispy spots are usually sunburn from too much direct sun. Brown edges can indicate underwatering, low humidity, or a buildup of salts from fertilizer.

Do fiddle leaf figs grow faster outside?
Almost always, yes. The combination of perfect light, natural humidity, and air movement creates ideal growing conditions that are hard to replicate indoors.

Moving your fiddle leaf fig outdoors for the season is a rewarding project. It requires attention and care, especially during the transition periods. But the result—a lush, vigorous, and dramatically larger plant—is well worth the effort. By following these steps for acclimation, placement, and care, you set your plant up for a summer of thriving growth.