If you’ve ever found yourself admiring a lush, hole-filled leaf in a friend’s home or a garden center, you might wonder: is that a philodendron swiss cheese vs monstera adansonii? These two popular houseplants are often confused, and it’s easy to see why. Both feature those beautiful, distinctive leaf patterns with holes and splits. But they are actually different plants with unique needs.
Knowing which one you have is key to giving it the right care. This guide will help you spot the differences and keep your plant thriving. We’ll look at leaves, growth habits, and even their scientific backgrounds.
Philodendron Swiss Cheese vs Monstera Adansonii
Let’s clear up the biggest source of confusion first. The name “Swiss Cheese Plant” is commonly used for two different plants. One is the Monstera adansonii. The other is a type of Philodendron, often Philodendron bipinnatifidum (also called Selloum). However, in today’s houseplant circles, “Swiss Cheese Vine” almost always refers to Monstera adansonii.
So when people compare philodendron swiss cheese vs monstera adansonii, they are usually talking about Monstera adansonii versus a true Philodendron with split leaves. For this article, we’ll focus on Monstera adansonii (the classic “Swiss Cheese Vine”) and compare it to true Philodendron species like P. bipinnatifidum or the climbing P. scandens forms.
Key Differences in Leaf Patterns and Structure
The leaves are the best place to start your identification. While both can have holes, the details are distinct.
Monstera Adansonii Leaves
Monstera adansonii leaves are typically heart-shaped or oval with a pointed tip. The holes, called fenestrations, appear in the middle of the leaf. They are more like inner windows. The leaf margin (the edge) remains mostly intact and closed. The leaves are also thinner and more papery in texture. As a vine, the leaves are smaller, usually 4-8 inches long on a houseplant.
- Holes are inside the leaf blade.
- Leaf edges are solid and unbroken.
- Texture is thinner, almost delicate.
- Leaves are asymmetrical, with one side slightly larger than the other.
Philodendron ‘Swiss Cheese’ Leaves
When referring to a true Philodendron like P. bipinnatifidum, the leaf pattern involves deep splits that go all the way to the central rib or the edge. These are called lobes, not fenestrations. The leaf is much larger, thicker, and leathery. It grows from a central, non-climbing stem.
- Splits go to the edge, creating separate fingers.
- Leaf is thick and robust.
- Overall size is much larger (can be several feet wide).
- Grows in a more upright, bushy form.
Growth Habit and Plant Shape
How the plant grows is another dead giveaway. This is one of the most reliable ways to tell them apart.
Monstera adansonii is a natural climber. It’s a vine that will happily trail from a hanging basket or scramble up a moss pole. It puts out long, slender stems with nodes where the leaves and aerial roots attach. It will not form a bushy plant on its own without support.
In contrast, a Philodendron bipinnatifidum is a self-heading plant. It grows from a single, thick central stem with leaves emerging on long, upright petioles. It forms a large, spreading rosette shape that sits on the ground or in a pot. It does not vine.
Root Systems and Aerial Roots
Both plants have aerial roots, but they use them differently. Monstera adansonii produces many thin, stringy aerial roots from its nodes. These are designed to grip onto tree bark in the wild, anchoring the vine as it climbs. They can be quite long and adventurous.
The aerial roots on a large philodendron are often thicker and fewer in number. They primarily function for stability and additional nutrient gathering as the heavy plant grows. They may grow down toward the soil to support the plant’s weight.
Care Requirements: A Side-by-Side Comparison
While their care is somewhat similar, there are nuances. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you tailor your approach.
Light Needs
- Monstera Adansonii: Prefers bright, indirect light. Can tolerate medium light but growth and fenestration will be reduced. Direct sun can scorch its thin leaves.
- Philodendron (e.g., Bipinnatifidum): Also likes bright indirect light but is often more adaptable to lower light conditions due to its thicker leaves. It can handle some morning sun.
Watering Schedule
Both like to dry out a bit between waterings, but the texture is a clue. The thinner-leaved Monstera adansonii tends to need slightly more consistent moisture. Let the top inch or two of soil dry. The thick-leaved philodendron is more drought-tolerant; you can let the soil dry out more thoroughly. Overwatering is a bigger risk for both than underwatering.
Soil and Potting Mix
A well-draining, airy mix is crucial for both plants to prevent root rot. A good recipe for either is:
- Two parts high-quality potting soil.
- One part perlite for drainage.
- One part orchid bark or coco chips for aeration.
The monstera, being an epiphytic climber, especially appreciates the chunky bark mix. The philodendron will also thrive in it.
Humidity Preferences
As tropical plants, both enjoy higher humidity. Monstera adansonii is often a bit more demanding in this regard. In very dry air, its leaf tips may brown. A humidity level above 50% is ideal. The larger philodendron is somewhat more forgiving of average household humidity, but it will still reward you with better growth if you provide extra moisture in the air.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with the best care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Yellowing Leaves
This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture first. For both plants, ensure the pot has drainage holes and you’re not letting them sit in water. On monstera, yellowing can also indicate it needs more light.
Brown Leaf Edges or Tips
Low humidity is a common culprit, especially for Monstera adansonii. It can also be caused by using tap water high in salts or fluoride. Try using filtered or rainwater, and consider a humidifier. Underwatering can also cause crispy edges.
Leggy Growth or Small Leaves
This almost always means the plant needs more light. Your Monstera adansonii might produce leaves without holes if the light is too low. The philodendron may have unusually long petioles and smaller leaf blades. Move them to a brighter spot, but avoid direct harsh sun.
Propagation: How to Multiply Your Plants
The good news is both plants are easy to propagate. The methods are similar but with a slight twist.
To propagate Monstera adansonii:
- Cut a stem section just below a node (the bump where a leaf attaches). Ensure it has at least one leaf.
- Place the cutting in water, making sure the node is submerged.
- Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water weekly.
- Once roots are a few inches long, pot it in soil.
To propagate a tree-type philodendron like P. bipinnatifidum, the most common method is division during repotting. Gently separate a section of the root ball that has both roots and at least one growing point (where leaves emerge). Pot it up separately. Some vining philodendrons can be propagated just like the monstera, with stem cuttings in water.
FAQ: Your Questions Answered
Are Monstera adansonii and Swiss Cheese Vine the same thing?
Yes, in modern houseplant terminology, “Swiss Cheese Vine” is the common name for Monstera adansonii. The confusion arises because other plants with split leaves also get called “Swiss Cheese Plant.”
Which is easier to care for, the monstera or the philodendron?
Both are considered relatively easy. The larger philodendron types are often seen as more tolerant of variable conditions and occasional neglect. Monstera adansonii is also easy but might need more consistent humidity and light to look its best.
Can I grow them together in the same pot?
It’s not recommended. They have different growth habits—one is a climbing vine, the other is an upright shrub. They would compete for resources and create a messy, unbalanced look. They’re best appreciated in separate containers.
Why does my Monstera adansonii not have holes?
Insufficient light is the main reason. Young leaves also often lack holes; fenestrations develop as the plant matures and receives adequate bright, indirect light. Be patient and adjust its location if needed.
Is one more pet-friendly than the other?
No, both Monstera adansonii and common philodendron species contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It’s best to keep both plants out of reach of curious pets.
Understanding the differences between these plants helps you become a more confident plant parent. By paying attention to leaf patterns, growth form, and specific care needs, you can ensure both your Monstera adansonii and your philodendron thrive. The joy is in watching those distinctive leaves unfurl, whether they’re filled with delicate inner windows or bold, dramatic splits.