If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a bold statement with minimal fuss, look no further. The philodendron imperial red is a stunning deep red foliage plant that commands attention in any room. Its large, glossy leaves emerge a bright coppery-red and mature to a deep, luxurious burgundy, creating a beautiful ombre effect on a single plant. It’s a true showstopper that brings a touch of the tropics indoors.
This hybrid philodendron is part of the “Imperial” series, bred for its compact, self-heading growth habit. Unlike vining philodendrons, it grows upright, with leaves emerging from a central core. This makes it perfect for tabletops or as a floor plant in a bright corner. Best of all, it’s surprisingly adaptable and forgiving, making it an excellent choice for both new and experienced plant parents.
Philodendron Imperial Red
This plant’s most defining feature is, of course, its incredible color. The foliage isn’t just a flat red; it’s a dynamic display. New leaves unfurl in a vibrant, almost neon red, gradually deepening as they harden off. Mature leaves can become a very dark greenish-red, especially in lower light. The stems are often a sturdy, reddish-purple, adding to the overall dramatic appearance.
Its growth pattern is another big plus. The self-heading form means it stays relatively neat and bushy without needing a pole to climb on. It will slowly increase in height and width, filling out its space beautifully. With proper care, you can enjoy this stunning plant for many years as it becomes a centerpiece of your collection.
Ideal Growing Conditions
To keep your Imperial Red looking its best, you’ll want to mimic its preferred tropical environment as closely as possible. Don’t worry, it’s not as hard as it sounds. The key is consistency in a few key areas.
Light Requirements
Light is the most important factor for maintaining that famous red color. Bright, indirect light is ideal. Think near an east or west-facing window, or a few feet back from a south-facing one. Direct sun, especially the hot afternoon variety, can scorch the leaves. Too little light, however, will cause the plant to produce more green chlorophyll, making the leaves darker green and less red. If you notice the new leaves coming in mostly green, it’s a sign it needs a brighter spot.
Temperature & Humidity
As a tropical plant, it prefers warmth and appreciates humidity. Aim for temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents. While it can tolerate average household humidity, it will truly thrive with extra moisture in the air. You can increase humidity by:
- Placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water.
- Grouping it with other plants.
- Using a room humidifier nearby.
Brown, crispy leaf tips are often a telltale sign the air is too dry.
Planting and Potting Mix
Getting the foundation right is crucial. Your philodendron imperial red needs a potting mix that holds some moisture but drains excellently. A heavy, soggy soil will lead to root rot, which is the most common killer of these plants.
A good, simple recipe is to use a high-quality indoor potting mix and amend it for better drainage. You can mix in:
- Perlite (this is excellent for aeration)
- Orchid bark
- Coco coir chunks
A ratio of about 2 parts potting mix to 1 part amendment works well. When choosing a pot, always ensure it has drainage holes. Terracotta pots are a great choice because they allow the soil to dry more evenly.
Watering and Feeding Schedule
Overwatering is the number one mistake people make. Your watering schedule should change with the seasons, not the days of the week.
How to Water Correctly
The best method is the “finger test.” Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it still feels damp, wait a few more days. When you do water, do so thoroughly until water runs freely out the drainage holes. Always empty the saucer underneath after 15 minutes so the plant isn’t sitting in water. In the warmer, brighter growing season (spring and summer), you’ll water more frequently. In fall and winter, when growth slows, you’ll water much less.
Fertilizing for Vibrant Growth
Feed your plant during its active growing season to support those big, colorful leaves. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 formula) diluted to half strength is perfect. Apply it about once a month from spring through early fall. There’s no need to fertilize in the winter when the plant is resting. Over-fertilizing can damage the roots and cause leaf burn, so less is more.
Pruning and Maintenance
This plant is naturally tidy, but a little maintenance goes a long way. Regular pruning isn’t strictly necessary for shape, but it’s beneficial for health and appearance.
- Remove any yellowing or dead leaves at the base of the stem to keep the plant looking fresh and prevent potential pest issues.
- If you want to encourage a bushier plant, you can carefully trim the very top growth point. This will often stimulate new side shoots to form.
- Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make any cuts. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks will keep them dust-free and shining, allowing them to absorb maximum light.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems.
Yellowing Leaves
This is usually a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture immediately. If it’s soggy, let it dry out completely before watering again, and ensure your pot has good drainage. Sometimes, the oldest leaves will yellow and die naturally as the plant grows; this is normal if it’s just one or two.
Brown Leaf Edges or Tips
This typically indicates low humidity or, less commonly, underwatering. Increase the humidity around your plant using one of the methods mentioned earlier. Also, check that you are watering thoroughly when you do water; sometimes the water can run down the inside of the pot without wetting all the roots.
Leggy Growth or Small Leaves
This is a clear cry for more light. The plant is stretching to find a brighter spot. Move it gradually to a location with brighter, indirect light. You should see an improvement in the size and color of new growth.
Pests
Philodendrons can occasionally attract common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Inspect your plant regularly, especially under the leaves. If you spot pests, isolate the plant and treat it promptly. A gentle shower, insecticidal soap, or neem oil application are effective first steps.
Propagation Guide
Want to make more of these beautiful plants? Propagation is straightforward. The best method for a self-heading philodendron like the Imperial Red is by division during repotting.
- Gently remove the plant from its pot.
- Carefully tease apart the root ball into two or more sections, ensuring each section has several leaves and a healthy amount of roots. You may need to use a clean knife to cut through thick roots.
- Pot each new division into its own container with fresh, well-draining potting mix.
- Water lightly and place in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. The new plants might look a bit sad for a week or two as they establish, but they will soon perk up.
FAQ Section
Is the Philodendron Imperial Red toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.
How fast does an Imperial Red philodendron grow?
It has a moderate growth rate. You can expect a few new leaves each month during the spring and summer growing season. Growth will slow or stop in the winter.
Why is my red philodendron turning green?
Insufficient light is the primary cause. The plant produces more green chlorophyll to capture energy in low light, overpowering the red pigments. Move it to a brighter location to encourage the red colors to return in new growth.
How often should I repot my Imperial Red?
Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Only move up one pot size (about 2 inches larger in diameter) to prevent excess soil from staying wet too long.
Can I put my philodendron imperial red outside?
You can during warm summer months, but it must be in a fully shaded or dappled light location. Never place it in direct outdoor sun, which is much stronger than indoor light. Remember to bring it back inside before nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F.
With its stunning looks and resilient nature, the philodendron imperial red is a rewarding plant to care for. By providing the right balance of light, water, and warmth, you’ll be able to enjoy its deep, dramatic foliage for a long time. It’s a plant that truly earns its place as a focal point in any indoor jungle.