When To Transplant Strawberries

Knowing when to transplant strawberries is the single most important factor for a successful move. Get the timing right, and your plants will reward you with vigorous growth and a great harvest. This guide covers the best time for moving your strawberry plants, along with the simple steps to ensure they thrive in their new home.

Transplanting can invigorate an old bed, help you expand your patch, or save bargain plants from the garden center. But if you do it at the wrong time, you risk losing your plants entirely. The goal is to minimize stress and give the roots time to establish before extreme weather hits.

The best times to transplant strawberries are during their dormant or mild growth periods. For most climates, this means early spring or early fall. Let’s break down the pros and cons of each season so you can choose what’s right for your garden.

Transplanting in Early Spring

Spring transplanting is done just as the plants wake up from winter dormancy. You’ll see new green leaves starting to form, but active growth hasn’t fully begun.

Best for: Cold winter climates (USDA zones 3-6).
Timing: As soon as the soil is workable, usually 4-6 weeks before your last average frost date.
Advantage: Plants have the entire growing season to establish before their first winter. They often produce a small harvest later that same summer.
Disadvantage: Unpredictable late frosts can damage new growth. Spring rains can also waterlog soil.

Transplanting in Early Fall

Fall transplanting occures after the summer heat breaks but well before the first hard frost. The soil is still warm, which encourages root growth.

Best for: Mild winter climates (USDA zones 7-10) and areas with hot summers.
Timing: About 6-8 weeks before your first average fall frost date.
Advantage: Cooler air temperatures reduce stress on leaves, while warm soil promotes root establishment. Plants enter winter strong and bear a full harvest the following spring.
Disadvantage: If done too late, plants won’t have time to root properly and may heave out of the ground during freeze-thaw cycles.

Transplanting Runners (Daughters)

Strawberries send out runners with baby plants, called daughter plants. These are perfect for transplanting. The best time to move them is in mid to late summer, once they have developed their own roots but before they’ve been attached to the mother plant for too long. Simply snip the runner connecting them and transplant as you would any new plant.

When to Avoid Transplanting

You should avoid transplanting during three key periods:

Mid-Summer Heat: High heat causes extreme wilting and often fatal stress.
Peak Flowering & Fruiting: The plant’s energy is going into fruit production, not root growth.
Frozen or Waterlogged Soil: Working frozen soil damages roots and structure. Wet soil compacts easily, suffocating roots.

Step-by-Step Guide to Transplanting Strawberries

Follow these steps for a seamless move. Having everything ready before you start makes the process smooth for both you and the plants.

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Site

Strawberries need full sun (at least 6-8 hours) and well-draining soil. Work the soil to a depth of about 12 inches, mixing in several inches of compost or aged manure. This improves drainage and fertility. A slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.8 is ideal.

Step 2: Water the Plants Thoroughly

The day before you plan to move them, give your strawberry plants a deep watering. This ensures they are fully hydrated and reduces shock. It also makes the soil easier to work with.

Step 3: Dig Up the Plants Carefully

Use a garden fork or spade to loosen the soil in a wide circle around the plant. Aim to get as much of the root ball as possible. Gently lift the plant, shaking off excess soil so you can inspect the roots. Be careful not to tear or break the main crown.

Step 4: Prepare the Plants for Moving

Trim any damaged, very long, or blackened roots with clean pruners. Also, remove any old, dead leaves. If the plant is large with many crowns, you can gently divide it at this stage. Keep the roots moist and shaded while you work; a damp burlap sack or towel is perfect.

Step 5: Plant at the Correct Depth

This is the most critical step. Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots out. The crown of the plant—where the leaves meet the roots—must sit exactly at the soil surface. If planted too deep, the crown rots. If planted too shallow, the roots dry out. Backfill the hole, firming the soil gently around the roots.

Step 6: Water and Mulch Immediately

Water each plant deeply right after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Then, apply a 2-3 inch layer of straw or pine needle mulch around the plants. This conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the developing fruit clean.

Aftercare for Transplanted Strawberries

Your care in the weeks after moving is crucial. The plants will look wilted for a few days—this is normal transplant shock.

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first 2-3 weeks. Water at the base of the plants, not overhead.
Blooms: For spring transplants, pinch off any flowers that appear in the first 4-6 weeks. This directs energy to the roots. For fall transplants, you can remove any late blooms that form.
Fertilizing: Wait 4-6 weeks after transplanting to apply a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer. This gives the roots time to recover and can absorb nutrients.
Winter Protection: For fall transplants in cold areas, apply a thick layer of straw mulch over the plants after the first hard freeze.

Common Transplanting Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for:

Wrong Timing: The number one cause of failure. Sticking to the spring/fall windows is key.
Incorrect Planting Depth: Always check that the crown is level with the soil.
Overcrowding: Space plants 12-18 inches apart in rows 3-4 feet apart. Good air flow prevents disease.
Neglecting Water: Inconsistent watering in the establishment phase is a major setback.
Using Weak Plants: Only transplant healthy, vigorous plants. Don’t waste effort moving sick ones.

FAQ: Moving Your Strawberry Plants

Can I transplant strawberries in the summer?

It’s not recommended. Summer heat causes severe stress. If you must, do it on a cool, cloudy day and provide constant shade and moisture. Success rates are much lower.

How soon after transplanting will I get berries?

Spring-transplanted June-bearing varieties may give a small crop later that summer. Fall-transplanted plants will produce a full harvest the following spring. Ever-bearing types may yield a moderate crop about 3 months after a spring move.

Can I move strawberries that are flowering?

You can, but you should pinch off all flowers and buds at the time of transplant. The plant needs to focus on root establishment, not fruit production.

What is the best way to transplant overgrown strawberry beds?

Dig up the entire bed in early spring. Discard old, woody center plants. Select the healthiest young daughter plants from the outer edges, trim their roots, and replant them in a newly prepared site with fresh soil.

Do I need to amend the soil when transplanting?

Yes, amending with compost is highly beneficial. It improves soil structure, drainage, and provides slow-release nutrients. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers at planting time, as they can burn new roots.

Transplanting strawberries at the right time sets them up for years of productivity. By choosing a cool, mild period and following the simple steps for careful handling and planting, you’ll give your plants the best start. Paying attention to their needs in the weeks after the move ensures they quickly settle into there new home and prepare for a bountiful season ahead.