Adding hanging orchids outside is a fantastic way to bring elegance and color to your patio, porch, or garden trees. This guide will help you do it successfully, turning your outdoor space into a living gallery of blooms.
Hanging Orchids Outside
Many people think orchids are only indoor plants, but lots of varieties thrive in fresh air. Hanging them outside mimics their natural, epiphytic lifestyle where they grow on tree branches in dappled light. It can lead to stronger growth and more prolific flowering if you get the conditions right.
Choosing the Right Orchids for Outdoor Life
Not all orchids are suited for outdoor living, especially in temperate climates. Your success starts with picking hardy types that can handle the variable conditions.
- Cattleya: These love bright light and are tough. They handle the morning sun well and enjoy good air circulation.
- Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids): Surprisingly adaptable. They need complete shade outdoors, protected from any direct sun which will scorch their leaves.
- Dendrobium: Many, like the popular Den. nobile types, enjoy summer outside. They apreciate bright light and a distinct seasonal change to trigger blooms.
- Oncidium (Dancing Lady): These enjoy conditions similar to Cattleyas. Their tall flower spikes look amazing swaying in a gentle breeze.
- Vanda: Often grown in wooden baskets with minimal media, Vandas adore high humidity, warmth, and bright light. They are perfect for a sheltered, sunny spot.
Finding the Perfect Outdoor Location
Location is everything. The wrong spot can lead to sunburn, wind damage, or root rot. You need to think about light, wind, and temperature together.
Light is Key: Most hanging orchids outside need filtered or dappled sunlight. Think of the light under a tall tree with leaves. Morning sun is usually safe; harsh afternoon sun is often a problem. A north or east-facing eave is often ideal.
Wind Protection: While orchids need air movement, strong winds can dehydrate them quickly and tear leaves. Place them where they get a gentle breeze, not a gusty corridor.
Temperature Considerations: Know your orchid’s needs. Phalaenopsis prefer it warmer, while some Cattleyas and Dendrobiums can handle cooler nights. Almost all need protection if temperatures dip below 50°F (10°C).
How to Hang Your Orchids Safely and Securely
A falling orchid pot is dangerous and heartbreaking. A secure hanging system is non-negotiable.
- Choose Strong Hardware: Use screw-in eye hooks or plant hangers designed for your ceiling material (wood beam, vinyl soffit). Don’t rely on adhesive hooks.
- Select the Right Hanger: Use sturdy chains, coated wire, or thick macramé. Ensure the hanger can support the weight of the pot when it’s wet, which is much heavier.
- Check Regularly: Inspect your hooks and hangers a few times a season for rust, wear, or loosening. Safety first!
Pot and Media Choices for Outdoor Growth
Your potting setup needs to work with the outdoor elements, especially rain.
- Pots: Slotted orchid pots or wooden baskets are excellent. They provide maximum drainage and air flow to the roots, preventing soggy media.
- Media: A chunky, fast-draining mix is essential. Fir bark, large charcoal chunks, and lava rock are great choices. They won’t hold excess water after a summer shower.
Watering and Feeding Adjustments for Outside
Outdoor conditions change your watering schedule. Wind and sun dry pots out faster, while rain can water for you.
Watering: Check your plants daily. Stick your finger in the media. If it feels nearly dry, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly in the morning so leaves dry before night. After a good rain, you might skip your next watering.
Feeding: During the active growing season (spring-fall), fertilize weekly with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer. A common method is to “feed weakly, weekly.” Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 or 1/2 the recommended strength. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup from the fertilizer.
Seasonal Care and Bringing Orchids Inside
In most climates, hanging orchids outside is a seasonal pleasure. Knowing when to move them is crucial.
Moving Out in Spring: Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F (13°C). Acclimate them slowly to the brighter light over a week or two to prevent shock.
Summer Care: This is their prime growing time. Monitor water closely and enjoy the growth!
Bringing Them In for Fall/Winter: This is the critical step. Bring them inside well before the first frost is forecasted. Night temps dipping to 45°F (7°C) are usually your signal.
Pest and Disease Vigilance Outdoors
Being outside exposes orchids to more insects and potential diseases. Regular checks are your best defence.
- Common Pests: Watch for aphids on new growth, scale insects on leaves and stems, and slugs/snails that can chew on leaves and flowers. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap often handles the first two.
- Preventing Disease: Good air circulation is your number one tool. It helps leaves dry and prevents fungal and bacterial rots. Always water the media, not the leaves, when you can.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Here’s how to fix issues you might see.
Sunburn: Leaves develop white, yellow, or black crispy patches. Move the plant to a shadier location immediately. The damaged leaves won’t recover but new ones will grow.
Dehydration: Wrinkled, pleated leaves or shriveled pseudobulbs mean the plant isn’t getting enough water. Check if the media has broken down or if roots are dead. You may need to repot and water more frequently.
No Flowers: Usually due to insufficient light. If the plant is otherwise healthy, try moving it to a slightly brighter location (without causing sunburn). Also, ensure you are giving it a seasonal temperature drop if it’s required, like for many Dendrobiums.
FAQ: Hanging Orchids in Outdoor Gardens
Q: Can I leave my orchids outside all year?
A: Only if you live in a tropical or subtropical climate (like South Florida or Hawaii) where temperatures never get cold. For most, seasonal moving is necessary.
Q: How do I hang an orchid on a tree?
A. Choose a sturdy branch with good light. You can sit a potted orchid in a secure fork, or mount it directly to the trunk using a pad of sphagnum moss and secure it with fishing line or non-copper wire until its roots attach.
Q: Is rainwater good for my outdoor orchids?
A: Yes, rainwater is excellent for orchids! It’s naturally soft and free of the minerals found in some tap water. Just ensure pots drain freely so they don’t become waterlogged.
Q: My orchid’s leaves are turning red. Is this bad?
A: Not necessarily. Some red or purple tinge, especially on Cattleya leaves, can be a sign of good, strong light exposure. However, if the leaves are also hot to the touch or look scorched, it’s to much sun.
Q: What do I do with the flower spikes after blooming?
A: For Phalaenopsis, you can cut the spike above a node if it’s still green; it may rebloom. For most other orchids, cut the spent spike near the base after flowering to encourage new growth.
With the right preparation and ongoing care, hanging orchids outside can be a deeply rewarding part of your gardening year. It allows these beautiful plants to experience conditions closer to their native habitats, often resulting in stunning, vigorous displays that will make your outdoor space truly special.