Starting a new garden is exciting, but that patch of grass can seem like a big obstacle. If you’re wondering how to dig a garden bed from grass, you’re in the right place. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the easiest methods to convert your lawn into a productive and beautiful garden space. With a few tools and a weekend of work, you can have a ready-to-plant bed.
First, don’t feel rushed. Choosing the right method and preparing properly makes the job much easier. We’ll cover everything from picking the perfect spot to the final touches before planting. Let’s get your garden started.
How To Dig A Garden Bed From Grass
There are a few main ways to create a garden bed from grass. The best method for you depends on your timeline, budget, and how much effort you want to put in. Here’s a quick overview of the three most common techniques.
- Sheet Mulching (Lasagna Gardening): This is a no-dig method. You smother the grass with layers of cardboard and organic matter. It’s easy on your back and great for soil health, but it takes several months for the grass to decompose fully.
- Manual Digging (Double Digging): This is the traditional, hands-on approach. You physically remove the sod and turn the soil. It gives immediate results and excellent soil aeration, but it is labor-intensive.
- Using a Tiller or Sod Cutter: These tools mechanize the process. A tiller chops the grass into the soil, while a sod cutter removes it in strips. This is fast for large areas, but can be costly to rent and may disturb soil structure or bring weed seeds to the surface.
For this guide, we’ll focus on the manual digging method, as it’s a foundational skill, provides great results, and doesn’t require special equipment beyond basic tools.
What You’ll Need: Tools and Materials
Gathering your tools before you start saves time and frustration. You probably have most of these already.
- A sharp spade or a specialized sod cutter tool
- A garden fork
- A sturdy rake (bow rake is best)
- Measuring tape and garden stakes with string
- A wheelbarrow or tarp for moving sod and soil
- Cardboard or newspaper (if you choose to smother edges)
- Compost, aged manure, or other soil amendments
- Gardening gloves and sturdy shoes
Step 1: Choose and Mark Your Garden Bed Location
Sunlight is the most important factor. Most vegetables and flowers need at least 6-8 hours of direct sun per day. Watch your yard throughout the day to find the sunniest spot.
Also, consider access to water and proximity to your house for easy tending. Avoid low spots where water pools. Once you’ve picked the spot, mark the outline.
Use stakes and string for straight edges or a hose to lay out a curved, natural shape. A width of 3-4 feet is ideal, as it allows you to reach the center from either side without stepping on the soil.
Step 2: Prepare the Area
If the grass is long, mow it as short as possible. This makes cutting and removing the sod much easier. Water the area lightly a day before you plan to dig. Damp soil is easier to work with than hard, dry soil or soggy mud.
This is also the time to call your local utility company to have any underground lines marked. It’s a free service and crucial for safety.
Step 3: Remove the Sod
This is the main physical work. Using your sharp spade, cut the sod into manageable sections. A common size is about 1 foot by 1 foot squares.
- Push the spade straight down into the soil about 2-3 inches deep, cutting along your marked outline.
- Then, make parallel cuts across the interior to create your grid of squares.
- Slide the spade horizontally under the grass to sever the roots from the soil below. Aim for a uniform thickness.
- Lift the sod square and shake off as much soil as possible back into the bed. Place the sod squares grass-side down in your wheelbarrow or on a tarp.
What to do with the removed sod? You can compost it upside-down in a pile, use it to patch bare spots in your lawn elsewhere, or repurpose it as the base for a new raised bed. Don’t just throw it away—it’s valuable organic matter.
Step 4: Loosen and Amend the Soil
Once the grass is removed, you’ll see the exposed topsoil. Now, use your garden fork to loosen the soil beneath. Push the fork in as deep as the tines will go and gently rock it back and forth. Work your way across the entire bed. This improves drainage and aeration, making it easy for roots to grow.
Next, add amendments. Spread a 2-4 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure over the entire surface. You can also add other amendments like leaf mold or peat moss based on your soil’s needs. Using the fork or a rake, mix this organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of your loosened soil. This step feeds your soil and creates a fertile, fluffy planting medium.
Step 5: Shape and Finish the Bed
Rake the surface of your new bed smooth. Shape it so it is slightly higher in the center than at the edges to encourage water to drain away from plant crowns. This is called “crowning” or “mounding.”
Create clean edges around the bed by cutting a small trench between the bed and the remaining lawn. You can line this trench with strips of cardboard to help suppress any grass that tries to creep back in, covering it with mulch for a neat apperance.
Finally, water the empty bed thoroughly and let it settle for a day or two before planting. This helps reveal any air pockets and ensures moisture is deep in the soil.
Tips for Success and Common Mistakes
Start small. A bed that’s 4×8 feet is a perfect size for a beginner. It’s manageable and can still grow a surprising amount of food or flowers.
Don’t skip the soil amendment step. Healthy soil is the foundation of a successful garden. Investing in good compost now pays off all season.
Avoid working the soil when it’s too wet. If it forms a muddy ball in your hand, it needs to dry out more. Working wet soil can damage its structure, leading to compaction.
Consider a soil test. Your local cooperative extension office often offers affordable tests. This tells you exactly what your soil needs, so you don’t guess with amendments.
Alternative: The No-Dig Sheet Mulching Method
If digging isn’t for you, sheet mulching is a fantastic alternative. Here’s the basic process:
- Mow the grass very short.
- Water the area.
- Layer overlapping cardboard or 10+ sheets of newspaper directly on the grass. Wet it down thoroughly.
- Add 4-6 inches of a compost and mulch mixture on top.
- Wait. The grass will decompose under the layers. You can plant directly into the top compost layer immediately for some crops, or wait a full season for best results.
FAQ: Starting a Garden Bed from Grass
What is the easiest way to make a garden bed over grass?
The easiest method is sheet mulching (lasagna gardening). It requires no digging or tilling. You simply layer cardboard and compost on top of the grass to smother it.
Do I need to remove all the grass roots?
If you dig manually, try to remove as much as possible. Any small roots left behind can be hand-pulled later if they resprout. In a no-dig bed, the roots will decompose under the cardboard.
How deep should I dig a new garden bed?
Aim to loosen and amend the soil to a depth of about 10-12 inches. This gives plant roots plenty of room to establish and access nutrients.
Can I just till the grass into the soil?
You can, but it’s not always ideal. Tilling chops the grass into the soil, where it will decompose. However, perennial grass like Bermuda or Kentucky bluegrass may resprout from chopped roots. It can also create a lumpy bed initially as the grass clumps break down.
When is the best time to make a new garden bed?
Fall is an excellent time. It allows amendments to integrate and the bed to settle over winter, giving you a ready-to-plant bed in spring. Spring works too, just try to do it a few weeks before you plan to plant.
Creating a new garden bed from grass is a rewarding project. By following these clear steps, you can establish a healthy foundation for your plants to thrive. Remember, the little bit of effort you put in now will make gardening much more enjoyable and succesful for seasons to come. Take your time, enjoy the process, and soon you’ll be ready to plant.