How To Make Tomatoes Grow Bigger

Every gardener dreams of plump, juicy tomatoes. If you’re wondering how to make tomatoes grow bigger, you’re in the right place. Getting a larger harvest comes down to a few key practices. Let’s look at the simple steps you can take to boost your tomato size and yield.

It starts with the right foundation. From choosing seeds to proper feeding, each step matters. With a little attention, your plants will reward you with impressive fruits.

This is your main goal. Bigger tomatoes need consistent care. You can’t just plant them and forget. Focus on these core areas for the best results.

Start with the Right Variety

Not all tomatoes are created equal. If size is your aim, you must pick a variety bred for it. Cherry tomatoes will never become beefsteaks.

Beefsteak Types: Varieties like ‘Brandywine’, ‘Beefmaster’, and ‘Mortgage Lifter’ are famous for their huge fruits.
Heirloom vs. Hybrid: Many heirlooms offer fantastic flavor and size. Hybrids, however, are often bred for disease resistance and reliable large yields.
Check Seed Packets: Look for words like “large,” “giant,” or “1 lb. fruits” on the packet description.

Provide Maximum Sun and Warmth

Tomatoes are sun worshippers. They need full, direct sunlight to produce the sugars that fuel big fruit growth.

Sunlight: A minimum of 8 hours of direct sun is non-negotiable. 10+ hours is ideal for maximum growth.
Soil Temperature: Wait until the soil is warm (above 60°F) before planting. Cold soil shocks plants and stunts them from the start.
Microclimate: Use black plastic mulch to warm the soil early in the season. Or, plant near a south-facing wall that radiates heat.

Build Incredible Soil

Great soil is the secret to huge tomatoes. It’s their pantry and water reservoir. Poor soil means poor plants.

Test Your Soil: A simple test tells you the pH (aim for 6.2-6.8) and nutrient levels. It’s the best money you’ll spend.
Amend with Compost: Mix 3-4 inches of finished compost into the top 12 inches of soil. This improves drainage, nutrients, and moisture retention.
Add Balanced Fertilizer: At planting, use a balanced organic fertilizer or a tomato-specific one. This gives plants a strong start.

The Importance of Deep Planting

Tomatoes are unique. They can grow roots all along their stems. This creates a stronger, wider root system to support bigger fruit.

When you transplant, bury the stem up to the first set of true leaves. If the plant is leggy, you can even dig a shallow trench and lay the stem sideways. Just bend the top gently upward. New roots will form along the buried stem.

Master Watering and Mulching

Inconsistent watering is the top cause of problems like blossom end rot and small fruit. Tomatoes need steady moisture.

Deep and Infrequent: Water slowly and deeply, encouraging roots to grow down. Avoid daily light sprinkles.
Consistency is Key: Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week, including rainfall. Use a rain gauge.
Mulch Heavily: Apply 2-3 inches of straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips after the soil is warm. Mulch keeps soil moist, prevents weeds, and stops soil from splashing onto leaves.

Feed Them for Fruit, Not Just Leaves

Tomatoes have changing nutritional needs. Too much nitrogen early on makes huge plants with little fruit.

Early Growth (Nitrogen): A balanced fertilizer at planting supports initial leaf and stem growth.
Flowering & Fruiting (Phosphorus & Potassium): As flowers appear, switch to a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (the middle and last numbers on the bag). This directs energy into blooms and fruit.
Side-Dressing: When the first fruits are about the size of a golf ball, “side-dress” by scratching fertilizer into the soil around the plant’s drip line. Repeat every 3-4 weeks.

Prune and Support Strategically

Pruning helps the plant focus its energy. Proper support prevents broken branches under the weight of large fruit.

Indeterminate vs. Determinate: Only prune indeterminate varieties (those that grow all season). Determinate varieties (bush types) should generally not be pruned.
Remove Suckers: On indeterminates, pinch off the small shoots that grow in the “V” between the main stem and a branch. This keeps the plant manageable.
Use Strong Supports: Use tall, sturdy cages or a trellis system. Flimsy cages will topple. Tie branches loosely with soft cloth or twine as they grow.

The Art of Thinning Fruit

Sometimes, less is more. If a plant sets to many fruits, they’ll all compete for resources and stay small.

On large-fruited varieties, consider thinning clusters. Once fruits have set, remove the smaller, misshapen, or damaged ones from each cluster. Leaving 3-4 of the healthiest fruits per cluster allows them to grow much larger.

Pollination Assistance

Poor pollination leads to fewer fruits and misshapen ones. You can give nature a gentle hand.

On calm, dry mornings, gently shake or tap the main stem or flower clusters. This mimics the wind and helps release pollen. You can also use a small electric toothbrush to vibrate the flower stems—this trick works really well in greenhouses or during calm weather.

Monitor for Pests and Diseases

A stressed plant won’t produce big tomatoes. Keep a close eye on your plants health.

Check Leaves Regularly: Look under leaves for pests like aphids or hornworms. Remove them by hand or use an organic spray.
Prevent Fungal Issues: Water at the soil level, not the leaves. Good air circulation from pruning also helps prevent blight and mildew.
Remove Diseased Leaves: If you see spotted or yellowing leaves, remove them immediately and throw them in the trash, not the compost.

Know When to Harvest

Picking at the right time ensures you get the full size and flavor. Don’t let them overripen on the vine if pests are a problem.

Harvest tomatoes when they are fully colored but still firm. If weather threatens (like heavy rain that can cause splitting), you can pick fruits that have started to turn color and ripen them indoors on a counter away from direct sunlight.

FAQ: Getting Larger Tomato Harvests

What is the best fertilizer for bigger tomatoes?
Use a balanced fertilizer at planting. Then, switch to a fertilizer with a higher middle number (phosphorus) when flowering starts. Options like bone meal or a tomato-specific formula work great.

Should I remove leaves to help tomatoes grow?
Yes, but carefully. Removing some lower leaves improves air flow and can direct energy to fruit. Never remove more than 1/3 of the foliage at once, and focus on leaves that are yellowing or touching the ground.

Why are my tomato plants huge but have no big fruit?
This usually means to much nitrogen in the soil. The plant is making leaves instead of fruit. Switch to a bloom-boosting fertilizer and ensure it’s getting enough sun and consistent water.

Does Epsom salt make tomatoes bigger?
Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) can help if your soil is deficient in magnesium, which is rare. A soil test will tell you for sure. If not needed, it won’t help and could harm your soil balance.

How can I get more tomatoes per plant?
Follow the steps above: perfect soil, consistent water, proper feeding, and good pollination. A healthy, unstressed plant will naturally set more fruit and have the resources to grow them larger.

Growing bigger tomatoes is a rewarding process. It requires patience and attention to detail, but the results are worth it. Start with a good variety, build your soil, and maintain consistent care. Before you know it, you’ll be harvesting the largest, most flavorful tomatoes your garden has ever produced. Remember, each step builds on the last to create the ideal conditions for impressive growth.