Knowing when to harvest potatoes is the key to getting the best flavor and storage life from your crop. Getting the timing right means you’ll enjoy perfect potatoes, whether you want tender ‘new’ potatoes or sturdy spuds for winter. This guide will walk you through the clear signs and simple methods for When To Harvest Potatoes – Perfect Timing For Digging.
The wait can be the hardest part, but patience pays off. Harvest too early, and your yield will be small. Harvest to late, and the potatoes might rot or get damaged by pests. By understanding the growth cycle and watching for visual cues, you can harvest with confidence.
When To Harvest Potatoes – Perfect Timing For Digging
There isn’t a single calendar date for harvesting potatoes. The perfect timing depends on two main things: the type of potato you planted and what you plan to do with them. Are you after thin-skinned, creamy new potatoes for boiling? Or do you need thick-skinned, mature potatoes that will last in your cellar for months? Let’s break it down.
Understanding Potato Growth Stages
Potatoes grow in distinct phases. Knowing these helps you make the right call.
* Vegetative Growth: After planting, the plant focuses on leafy tops. Don’t disturb them during this time.
* Flowering: This often signals that the plant has started forming tubers underground. It’s a hint, but not the final sign for mature potatoes.
* Tuber Bulking: The potatoes themselves rapidly increase in size. This is when they pack on most of their weight.
* Senescence (Dying Back): The plant’s job is done. The leaves and stems turn yellow, then brown, and die back. This is the primary signal for harvesting maincrop, storage potatoes.
The Two Main Harvest Windows
1. Harvesting New Potatoes
New potatoes are immature tubers harvested early. They have a delicate, thin skin and a superior, creamy texture that’s perfect for salads and boiling.
* Timing: Start checking about 7-8 weeks after planting, or soon after the plants have finished flowering.
* The Sign: Gently dig around the base of a plant with your fingers. You’re looking for tubers about the size of a large egg or a bit bigger.
* Method: Carefully remove a few potatoes from the side of the plant, leaving the rest of the plant intact to continue growing. You can take a few from each plant over several weeks for a continuous supply.
2. Harvesting Mature (Maincrop) Potatoes for Storage
These are the potatoes you’ll store over winter. They need fully developed, thick skins that protect them.
Timing: Typically 2-3 weeks after the plant tops have completely died back.
* The Signs:
* The foliage is fully yellow/brown and dried out.
* The skins are “set.” You can check this by gently rubbing a potato; the skin should not scrub off easily.
* Why Wait After Dying Back? This waiting period allows the skins to toughen up sufficently. Tough skins mean less bruising and much better storage.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Digging Your Potatoes
Follow these steps for a successful, damage-free harvest.
1. Choose the Right Day. Pick a dry day when the soil is slightly moist, not soggy or rock hard. Wet soil clumps and can promote rot later.
2. Cut Back the Tops. If you haven’t already, use shears to cut the dead foliage down to about 2 inches above the soil. This makes digging easier and helps you see.
3. Gather Your Tools. You’ll need a digging fork (preferred) or a sturdy shovel. A fork is less likely to slice through tubers.
4. Start Digging. Insert your fork well away from the base of the plant—about 10-12 inches out. Gently lift the soil and the plant’s root system.
5. Unearth the Spuds. Use your hands to sift through the loosened soil and retreive the potatoes. Place them gently into a bucket or basket.
6. Search Thoroughly. Check the hole carefully for any missed potatoes. Even small ones left behind can become weeds next year.
7. Handle with Care. Potatoes bruise easily. Avoid dropping or throwing them, as bruises lead to spoilage in storage.
Curing and Storing Your Harvest
What you do after digging is just as important as the digging itself.
* Curing: For mature storage potatoes, they need to cure. Lay them out in a single layer in a dark, well-ventilated, and cool place (50-60°F) for about 10-14 days. This allows any minor nicks to heal and the skins to harden further.
* Sorting: After curing, sort through your potatoes. Separate any that are damaged, green, or have soft spots. Eat these first, as they won’t store well.
* Ideal Storage: Store your perfect potatoes in complete darkness. Use breathable containers like burlap sacks, paper bags, or cardboard boxes. Keep them in a cool (38-45°F), humid place, like a root cellar or a basement corner. Check them occasionally and remove any that start to go bad.
Common Problems and What They Mean
* Green Potatoes: Caused by exposure to light (either in the garden or after harvest). Green parts contain solanine, which is bitter and can be toxic in large amounts. Cut away green areas before cooking, or discard severely green potatoes. Prevent this by “hilling” soil around plants and storing in total darkness.
* Cracked or Misshapen Potatoes: Often caused by uneven watering—a dry period followed by heavy rain or irrigation. Try to keep soil consistently moist, especially during tuber bulking.
* Small Harvest: Could be due to harvesting to early, insufficient sunlight, poor soil fertility, or overcrowding. Ensure your plants get at least 6-8 hours of sun and are spaced about 12 inches apart.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I harvest potatoes after the plant has flowered?
A: Yes, flowering is a good indicator that tubers are forming. For new potatoes, wait until after flowering. For mature potatoes, you must wait for the plant tops to die back completly.
Q: What happens if I harvest potatoes too early?
A: The skins will be very thin and peel off easily. The potatoes won’t store for more than a few days and your overall yeild will be much lower.
Q: How long can I leave potatoes in the ground?
A: Once the tops have died, you can leave them for a few weeks in dry soil. However, in wet soil, leaving them risks rot and slug damage. Don’t leave them too long into fall if heavy frosts are expected.
Q: Is it okay to harvest some potatoes early and let the rest grow?
A: Absolutely! This “bandicooting” method is perfect for gathering new potatoes. Just be very gentle to avoid disturbing the main root system to much.
Q: My potato plants never flowered. Can I still harvest?
A: Yes. Some varieties flower minimally or not at all. Rely on the dying back of the foliage and the days-to-maturity listed for your variety as your main guides.
Harvesting your homegrown potatoes is a rewarding moment. By paying attention to the plants’ signals and following these simple steps, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful, tasty crop that can feed you for months to come. Remember, the perfect timing is when the plant says it’s ready, not neccesarily when the calendar does.