For any gardener, a reliable water source is everything. One of the most effective and sustainable ways to secure it is by collecting storing rainwater. This simple practice turns your roof into a reservoir, offering a free supply of soft, chemical-free water that your plants will love.
It’s more than just saving on your water bill. It’s about building resilience in your garden, reducing runoff that erodes soil, and making the most of a natural resource. Let’s look at how you can set up your own system and start benefiting from this ancient, yet perfectly modern, technique.
Collecting Storing Rainwater
At its core, a rainwater harvesting system has three parts: a catchment area, a conveyance system, and a storage container. For most homes, the catchment is your roof. The conveyance is your gutters and downspouts. And the storage is a barrel or tank. It’s a straightforward concept with a huge impact.
Why Your Garden Prefers Rainwater
Tap water often contains chlorine and chloramines, added for public health but not ideal for soil microbes. Rainwater is naturally soft, slightly acidic, and free of these chemicals.
This means it:
* Improves soil health by encouraging beneficial microbial activity.
* Allows for better nutrient uptake by plant roots.
* Prevents the salt and mineral buildup that can occur with treated water.
* Is the perfect temperature – not icy cold from the tap, which can shock plant roots.
Choosing Your Rain Barrel or Tank
Your storage vessel is the heart of your system. The right choice depends on your space, budget, and goals.
Basic Rain Barrels (50-100 gallons):
These are perfect for beginners. They’re typically plastic or wooden, sit under a downspout, and have a spigot near the bottom for filling watering cans. Look for these features:
* A secure, fine mesh lid to keep out mosquitoes and debris.
* An overflow port near the top to direct excess water away from your foundation.
* A flat, stable base. A full 55-gallon barrel weighs over 450 pounds!
Larger Cisterns (200+ gallons):
If you have more space and rainfall, larger tanks (cisterns) are a great investment. They can be above-ground or, for a cleaner look and better temperature control, underground. They often connect directly to your gutter system and may include a pump for easier watering.
Setting Up Your First Rain Barrel: A Step-by-Step Guide
Here’s how to get a simple system operational in an afternoon.
1. Find the Perfect Location. Place your barrel under a downspout on the side of your house closest to where you need water most. Ensure the ground is perfectly level and solid.
2. Prepare the Base. Never place a barrel directly on soil or an uneven surface. Use concrete pavers, a compacted gravel pad, or a pre-made barrel stand. Elevating it also makes filling watering cans easier.
3. Modify the Downspout. Measure and cut your downspout so it will direct water into the center of your barrel’s lid. You can use a hacksaw for this. Install a downspout diverter kit if your barrel has one – these clever devices channel water into the barrel when it’s not full, and send overflow back down the downspout automatically.
4. Install the Barrel. Place the barrel on it’s prepared base. Connect the downspout to the barrel’s inlet, using flexible downspout elbows if needed. Secure all connections.
5. Set Up Overflow. Attach a hose to the overflow port and direct it at least 6 feet away from your home’s foundation. You can send it into a second barrel (linking barrels is a great way to increase capacity) or into a rain garden.
6. Check the Spigot. Make sure the spigot at the bottom is closed. You may want to attach a short hose to it for easier filling of cans.
Keeping Your Water Clean and Safe
Maintenance is simple but crucial. A clean system means better water for your plants and fewer problems.
* First Flush Diverter: Consider installing one. This device discards the first gallon of rainwater from a storm, which washes the most roof debris and contaminants off your roof.
* Regular Cleaning: Every few months, empty the barrel and rinse it out. Clear gutters and roof screens of leaves and twigs at least twice a year – in fall and spring.
* Mosquito Prevention: That fine mesh lid is your best defense. Ensure it’s always intact and sealed. If mosquitoes are a concern, you can add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to the water’s surface; it creates a film that prevents larvae from breathing.
Creative Uses for Collected Rainwater
While it’s primarily for the garden, your rainwater has other uses. Remember, water collected from roofs is generally not considered potable (drinkable) without proper treatment.
You can safely use it for:
* Watering all indoor and outdoor container plants.
* Filling bird baths and creating wildlife ponds.
* Rinsing gardening tools and washing pots.
* Supplementing water for your compost pile, keeping it actively decomposing.
Planning for a Larger System
If you get serious about rainwater harvesting, you can scale up significantly. A larger system involves calculating your roof’s catchment area and your local rainfall to determine your potential yield.
For example, 1 inch of rain on a 1,000 square foot roof yields about 623 gallons of water! A series of linked tanks or a single large cistern can capture a substantial amount of this, making your garden nearly water-independent.
Key upgrades include:
* A Pump: For drip irrigation or to provide pressure for garden hoses.
* Filtration: In-line filters between the gutter and tank for cleaner water.
* Overflow Management: Planning where thousands of gallons of overflow will go during a heavy storm, often into a designed swale or rain garden.
Overcoming Common Challenges
Winter Care: In freezing climates, you must winterize your system. Drain your barrel, disconnect it, and store it upside down or cover it. This prevents ice from damaging the container.
Low Rainfall: Even in dry areas, rainwater harvesting is valuable. Maximize storage with the largest tank you can fit, and use the water you collect very efficiently with drip irrigation and heavy mulching.
Algae Growth: Algae needs sunlight to grow. Use opaque, dark-colored barrels or tanks that block light. Keeping the lid sealed also helps alot.
The Bigger Picture: Conservation in Action
When you start collecting storing rainwater, you become part of a solution. You reduce demand on municipal water systems, especially during dry summer months. You lessen stormwater runoff, which carries pollutants into rivers and streams. And you create a healthier, more vibrant garden ecosystem. It’s a simple step with a profound ripple effect.
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FAQ: Your Rainwater Collection Questions Answered
Q: Is collecting rainwater illegal?
A: In most places, no. Rainwater harvesting is encouraged and even incentivized in many states and municipalities. However, a few locations have older laws with restrictions. It’s always best to check your very local regulations, but for residential garden use, it’s widely accepted.
Q: Can I use rainwater on my vegetable garden?
A: Yes, absolutely. It’s excellent for vegetables. For root crops or leafy greens you eat raw, many gardeners prefer to water the soil at the base of the plant rather than overhead watering with rainwater, as a extra precaution. Using a first-flush diverter and keeping your roof clean are key practices.
Q: How much does a basic system cost?
A: You can start for under $100. A simple 50-55 gallon rain barrel kit costs between $80-$150. With a few basic tools and an afternoon of work, you can have it installed. Larger cistern and pump systems are a more significant investment but pay off over time.
Q: What if my barrel fills up too fast?
A: That’s a good problem! It means you have more water to use. You can link multiple barrels together with connector kits, upgrade to a larger tank, or create a planned overflow area like a rain garden that will soak the water into the ground, recharging groundwater.
Q: Does the type of roof affect the water?
A: It can. Asphalt shingles are the most common and are generally fine for garden water. Metal, tile, and slate roofs are also excellent. Avoid collecting water from roofs with treated wood shingles or lead flashing, as they can leach harmful materials. If your unsure about your roof material, consult a professional.