Growing beautiful camellias inside your home is a rewarding project for any plant lover. This guide will show you how to grow camellias indoors successfully, turning your living space into a haven for these elegant blooms. With the right care, you can enjoy their stunning flowers even in the coldest months.
How To Grow Camellias Indoors – Indoor Camellia Care Guide
Camellias are classic outdoor shrubs, but they adapt surprisingly well to life in a container. The key is mimicking their preferred cool, humid, and bright conditions. Let’s walk through everything you need to know, from picking the perfect plant to keeping it thriving year after year.
Choosing the Right Camellia for Indoors
Not all camellias are equally suited for indoor life. Your best bet is to select a variety known for its compact growth and adaptability.
- Camellia sasanqua: These often bloom earlier (fall into winter) and can tolerate slightly warmer indoor temperatures better than other types.
- Dwarf or Compact Hybrids: Look for varieties like ‘Yuletide’, ‘Shishi Gashira’, or ‘Bonanza’. They stay smaller and are bred for container growth.
- Healthy Plant Inspection: Choose a plant with deep green, glossy leaves and plenty of buds. Avoid any with yellowing leaves, spots, or visible pests on the undersides.
The Perfect Pot and Soil Mix
Camellias hate wet feet. Their roots need air as much as they need moisture, so drainage is your top priority.
- Pot: Use a pot with large drainage holes. A breathable material like terracotta can help prevent overwatering, but glazed or plastic pots are fine if you’re careful.
- Soil: Never use heavy garden soil. Use a high-quality, acidic potting mix. A mix labeled for azaleas, rhododendrons, or camellias is perfect. You can make your own with peat moss, pine bark, and perlite.
- Potting Tip: When repotting, which is needed every 2-3 years, do it after blooming finishes and before new spring growth starts.
Finding the Ideal Light
Light is crucial for bud formation. Camellias need bright, but not scorching, light.
- An east-facing window is often ideal, providing strong morning light but protection from harsh afternoon sun.
- A south or west window can work if you filter the light with a sheer curtain, especially in summer.
- If natural light is low, especially in winter, consider supplementing with a grow light for 12-14 hours a day. This can make a huge difference in bud development.
- Rotate your plant a quarter-turn each week to ensure even growth and prevent it from leaning toward the light source.
Watering Your Indoor Camellia Correctly
This is where most indoor camellia problems start. The goal is consistently moist soil, never soggy and never bone dry.
- Check the Soil: Before watering, stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
- Water Thoroughly: Water slowly until you see it run freely out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
- Empty the Saucer: Always empty the water that collects in the saucer after 15-20 minutes. Letting the pot sit in water leads to root rot.
- Water Quality: Use room-temperature water. If your tap water is very hard (alkaline), use collected rainwater or distilled water occasionally to prevent soil pH from rising.
Temperature and Humidity: The Secret to Blooms
Camellias need a cool period to set their flower buds. High indoor humidity is also a must, as our homes are often very dry.
- Temperature: Aim for daytime temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C). At night, a drop to 50-60°F (10-15°C) is beneficial, especially in fall. Avoid placing your plant near hot vents or drafty doors.
- Humidity: Boost humidity around your plant. Group it with other plants, place its pot on a pebble tray filled with water (keep the pot above the water line), or use a small room humidifier nearby. Misting helps temporarily, but isn’t a complete solution on its own.
Feeding and Fertilizing
Feed your camellia during its active growing season (spring through summer). Stop feeding in late summer to allow the plant to harden off for winter.
- Use a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants.
- Always follow the label directions, and when in doubt, use a little less than recommended. Over-fertilizing can burn roots and cause leaf scorch.
- A light application of chelated iron in spring can help maintain that rich green leaf color if your water is alkaline.
Pruning and Shaping
Pruning is simple. The best time to prune is right after the plant has finished flowering, before it puts out its new spring growth.
- Remove any dead, weak, or crossing branches first.
- To shape the plant or control its size, make your cuts just above a leaf node or a set of leaves.
- Avoid heavy pruning all at once; light, annual shaping is better than a major chop every few years.
Solving Common Problems
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to fix common problems.
Yellowing Leaves
- Older inner leaves yellowing: This can be natural aging. If it’s excessive, check for overwatering or poor drainage.
- New leaves yellowing with green veins: This signals chlorosis, often caused by soil that is not acidic enough or an iron deficiency. Apply an acidifying fertilizer or chelated iron.
Bud Drop
This is frustrating! Buds falling off before opening is usually caused by environmental stress.
- Sudden changes in temperature, light, or humidity.
- Underwatering or overwatering.
- Lack of sufficient humidity during bud development.
Pests
Watch for scale insects (little bumps on stems/leaves), aphids, or spider mites (fine webbing). Wipe leaves with a damp cloth regularly. For infestations, treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, following product instructions carefully.
Seasonal Care Checklist
- Spring (Post-Bloom): Prune, repot if needed, resume regular feeding with acidic fertilizer.
- Summer: Keep soil moist, provide bright indirect light, protect from hot direct sun, continue feeding.
- Fall: Stop fertilizing. Ensure cool night temperatures (50-60°F) to encourage bud set. Maintain consistent moisture.
- Winter (Bloom Time): Enjoy the flowers! Keep humidity high, water carefully, and protect from cold drafts and direct heat sources.
FAQ: Indoor Camellia Questions Answered
Can I grow any camellia variety indoors?
While you can try, compact and dwarf sasanqua or hybrid varieties are most succesful. Large japonica types will quickly outgrow most indoor spaces.
Why are the leaves on my indoor camellia turning brown?
Brown leaf edges usually mean low humidity or salt buildup from fertilizer/water. Brown spots can be sun scorch. Increase humidity and flush the soil occasionally with plain water to leach salts.
How often should I repot my camellia?
Every 2 to 3 years is typical. Repot in spring after blooming. If you see roots circling the pot or growing out the drainage holes, it’s definitely time.
My camellia has never bloomed inside. What am I doing wrong?
The most common reasons are insufficient light (they need bright light to form buds), lack of a cool period in fall, or pruning at the wrong time (which removes flower buds). Check these three factors first.
Is it better to keep my camellia indoors year-round?
Many gardeners succeed with year-round indoor care. However, some find giving the plant a summer vacation outdoors in a shaded, sheltered spot boosts its vigor. Just remember to acclimate it slowly to the change in light to avoid leaf burn.
Growing camellias indoors is a testiment to your plant care skills. It requires attention to their specific needs for light, water, and climate. But the reward of those perfect, rose-like blooms opening in your home during the gray winter months is truly special. With patience and this guide, you can create a stunning indoor display that lasts for years.