How To Transplant Blueberries

If you need to move your blueberry bushes to a new spot, knowing how to transplant blueberries correctly is the key to their survival. A successful move gives your plants a fresh start in better soil or a sunnier location, ensuring years of delicious harvests. This guide walks you through the entire process, from picking the perfect time to the aftercare that gets them thriving again.

Transplanting might seem daunting, but blueberries are surprisingly resilient when you follow a few important steps. The most critical factors are timing, preparing the new hole properly, and minimizing root disturbance. Whether you’re moving a young plant or an established shrub, this simple step-by-step method will boost your chances of success.

Let’s get your blueberry bush ready for its big move. Planning ahead makes everything go smoother and reduces stress on the plant.

When is the Best Time to Transplant?

The ideal time is when the bush is dormant. This means it’s not actively growing leaves or fruit. Transplanting during dormancy gives the roots time to settle in before summer heat or new spring growth demands energy.

Late Fall: After leaf drop but before the ground freezes. This is often the best choice.
Early Spring: Before new buds begin to swell and break open. Avoid spring if you live where ground freezes deeply.
Avoid Summer: Transplanting in hot weather is very stressful and often fails.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

Having everything ready before you start is essential. You don’t want to leave the roots exposed while you search for a tool.

Sharp spade or shovel
Garden fork
Burlap or tarp for moving the rootball
Peat moss, composted pine bark, or pre-mixed acidic planting mix
Watering can or hose
Mulch (pine needles, wood chips)
Pruning shears (clean and sharp)

Preparing the New Planting Site

Blueberries demand very specific soil conditions. They need acidic, well-draining soil full of organic matter. Preparing the new home first is a non-negotiable step.

Sunlight: Choose a spot with full sun (at least 6-8 hours).
Soil Test: Ideally, test the soil pH. Blueberries need a pH between 4.5 and 5.5.
Dig the Hole: Make it twice as wide and just as deep as the expected rootball.
Amend the Soil: Mix the excavated soil with a generous amount of peat moss or acidic compost. Fill the hole about halfway with this mix and water it lightly.

Step-by-Step Transplanting Process

Now for the main event. Work carefully but efficiently to minimize the time the roots are out of the ground.

Water the Bush: Thoroughly water the blueberry plant a day or two before digging it up. Moist soil holds together better.
Prune Lightly: If it’s a large, established bush, you can trim back up to one-third of the older canes. This helps balance the top growth with the reduced root system.
Dig the Rootball: Start digging a trench around the bush, about 12-18 inches from the main stems. Slice down deep with your spade, aiming to get under the main root mass.
Lift the Plant: Once you’ve cut around the plant, gently work your shovel under it. Carefully lift the rootball onto the burlap or tarp. Try to keep the soil intact.
Move Quickly: Transport the plant to its new hole immediately. Don’t let the roots dry out in the sun or wind.
Place in New Hole: Set the rootball in the center. The top of the rootball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade.
Backfill: Shovel your prepared soil mix around the roots, firming it gently as you go to eliminate large air pockets.
Water Deeply: Create a shallow basin around the plant and water slowly until the soil is completely saturated. This settles the soil.
Apply Mulch: Spread 3-4 inches of acidic mulch like pine needles or wood chips around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the main stems.

Critical Aftercare for Success

Your job isn’t over once the bush is in the ground. The first year after transplanting requires consistent care.

Watering: This is the most important task. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) for the entire first growing season. Deep watering once or twice a week is better than frequent sprinkles.
Hold the Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time or for the first 6-8 weeks after. You can apply a light, acidic fertilizer in late spring of the first year if growth seems slow.
Monitor for Stress: Some leaf wilting or drop is normal. Provide shade cloth if the weather turns unexpectedly hot right after transplanting.
Skip the Fruit: If your bush flowers in its first spring after transplanting, it’s wise to pinch off the blossoms. This directs energy to root and shoot growth instead of fruit production.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Steering clear of these errors will greatly improve your results. Even experienced gardeners can make a couple of these slips.

Wrong Soil pH: Planting in neutral or alkaline soil is the number one reason for failure. Always amend for acidity.
Planting Too Deep: Burying the crown (where stems meet roots) can lead to rot. Keep it at ground level.
Insufficient Water: Letting the new transplant dry out, especially in the first few weeks, is often fatal.
Over-fertilizing: Burning the tender new roots with strong fertilizer will set the plant back severely.

FAQ: Transplanting Blueberries

Can you transplant blueberries in the summer?

It’s not recommended. The stress of heat and active growth makes survival rates much lower. If you must, do it on a cool, cloudy day and be prepared to water constantly and provide shade.

How big of a rootball do I need?

A good rule is to dig a rootball about 12 inches in diameter for every foot of bush height. For a 3-foot tall bush, aim for a 3-foot wide rootball. Its better to err on the side of too big than too small.

How long before a transplanted blueberry bush bears fruit?

If you transplanted a mature bush that was already fruiting, it may take a full year or two to recover and produce a normal crop again. A younger plant will follow its normal fruiting timeline once established.

Can I divide a blueberry bush when transplanting?

Blueberries do not divide like perennials. They are single-crowned shrubs. Attempting to cut them apart will likely kill the plant. It’s best to transplant them as a whole shrub.

My transplanted bush looks dead. Is it?

Don’t give up to quickly. Blueberries can die back to the ground and regrow from the roots. Wait until mid-summer to see if new shoots emerge from the base. Keep watering it lightly.

Transplanting blueberries successfully is a rewarding garden task. By choosing the right moment, preparing the soil with care, and providing diligent aftercare, you can move your bushes with confidence. They might look a little sad in the first season, but with patience, they will reward you with healthy growth and plenty of sweet berries for years to come. Remember, the key is always think about the roots—keeping them healthy, moist, and in acidic soil ensures your transplant thrives.