Orchid Monthly Checklist For November And December

As the year winds down, your orchids need a shift in care to match the changing seasons. This orchid monthly checklist for November and December will guide you through the essential tasks to keep your plants healthy and set them up for future blooms. The cooler, darker days require adjustments in watering, light, and temperature management.

This period is crucial for many popular orchids, like Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas, as they enter a rest phase or begin developing flower spikes. A little attention now makes all the difference. Let’s walk through your seasonal priorities.

This core checklist covers the universal actions for most orchid types during these two months. You’ll find specific advice for different genera in the sections below.

Light & Location Adjustments

Sunlight is weaker and days are shorter now. Your orchids will benefit from maximising every bit of available light.

Move plants closer to south or east-facing windows. Ensure leaves don’t touch cold glass, though.
Gently wipe dust from leaves with a damp cloth. Clean leaves absorb more light efficiently.
Consider using a grow light for 3-4 extra hours daily, especially if you see dark green, floppy new growth (a sign of insufficient light).
Rotate pots a quarter turn weekly to prevent plants from leaning excessively toward the light source.

Watering & Humidity Strategy

Overwatering is the top killer in winter. Growth slows, so roots take up moisture much more slowly.

Extend time between waterings. Let potting media dry almost completely. For many orchids, once every 10-14 days may be sufficient.
Always water in the morning so leaves and crowns dry by nightfall, preventing rot.
Use tepid water, not cold, to avoid shocking the roots.
Maintain humidity around 40-50%. Group plants together, use a humidity tray, or run a humidifier, especially if heating systems are drying the air.

Temperature & Airflow Management

Cooler nights are often a key bloom trigger. Good air movement prevents disease in stagnant winter air.

Provide a 10-15°F drop between daytime and nighttime temperatures. This mimics natural conditions and encourages spiking.
Keep orchids away from hot radiators, fireplaces, and cold drafts from doors or windows.
Use a gentle fan on low setting to keep air circulating. Don’t point it directly at the plants.
Monitor temperatures; most hybrids prefer nights above 60°F and days below 80°F.

Feeding & Fertilizing Routine

Nutritional needs change as growth patterns shift. A common mistake is feeding too much in late fall.

Reduce fertilizing frequency by half. If you fed weekly, switch to every other week.
Use a balanced fertilizer (like 20-20-20) or one slightly higher in phosphorus (e.g., 10-30-20) to support blooming.
Flush the potting media with plain water once a month to prevent harmful salt buildup from fertilizers.
For orchids in full rest (like some Dendrobiums), you can stop fertilizing completely until new growth appears in spring.

Pest Inspection & Prevention

Pests can become a bigger problem on stressed plants indoors. Regular checks are vital.

Inspect under leaves, along stems, and in sheaths for scale, mealybugs, or spider mites.
Treat any infestations immediately with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, following product instructions carefully.
Isolate any new plant additions for a few weeks before placing them near your collection.
Keep the growing area tidy by removing fallen leaves or debris from pot tops.

Specific Care by Orchid Type

Not all orchids follow the same schedule. Here’s how to tailor your approach.

Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids)

These are often initiating their flower spikes. Look for a spike emerging from the base where a leaf meets the stem—it looks like a tiny mitten.

Ensure good light and that nighttime temperature drop to encourage spiking.
Stake spikes early when they are about 4-5 inches long for a straighter flower display.
Continue watering carefully, but do not let them become bone dry for extended periods.

Cattleyas & Oncidiums

These orchids appreciate the cooler, brighter conditions. Many are finishing growth and hardening off pseudobulbs.

Bright light is very important now. They can handle direct winter sun.
Water only when the potting mix is nearly dry. New pseudobulbs should be plump.
Reduce fertilizer slightly, but don’t eliminate it if the plant is still actively growing.

Dendrobiums (Deciduous Types)

Some Dendrobiums, like the nobile type, are preparing for or are already in dormancy.

Leaves may yellow and drop—this is normal. Reduce watering significantly.
Move to a cooler, bright location (around 50-60°F nights if possible).
Withhold fertilizer completely until you see new growths (keikis) in spring.

Potting & Repotting Guidelines

Winter is generally not the ideal time to repot unless it’s an emergency.

Only repot now if the plant is suffering from severe media breakdown (smelly, decomposed mix) or root rot.
If you must repot, do it in a warm area and be conservative with watering afterward until new roots form.
Otherwise, make a note to repot in late winter or early spring when new root growth begins.
Check that pots still have adequate drainage and that plants aren’t top-heavy.

Holiday Season Special Considerations

December brings unique challenges with home decor and travel.

Keep orchids away from ripening fruit bowls. Ethylene gas emitted by fruit can cause buds to drop prematurely.
If you’re traveling, water normally before you leave. Do not overwater “for later.” Grouping plants on a humidity tray can help in your absence.
Ensure festive lights or decorations don’t create excessive heat or block crucial light from your plants.
Protect orchids from cold drafts when guests are arriving and departing.

FAQs: Your November & December Orchid Questions

My orchid has a flower spike. Should I change my care?

Yes. Continue with bright, indirect light and consistent (but reduced) watering. Avoid moving the plant to a different location once the spike is growing, as this can cause bud blast. Support the spike with a stake.

Why are my orchid’s leaves turning yellow?

It depends. One or two lower leaves yellowing and falling is normal. Several leaves yellowing could signal overwatering, too cold temperatures, or insufficient light. Check your conditions against the checklist above.

How do I know if I’m overwatering?

The most reliable method is to check the roots. Healthy roots are firm and green/silver, while overwatered roots are brown, mushy, and may smell bad. Also, if the potting media stays soggy for more than a week, you’re likely watering too often.

Should I mist my orchids in winter?

Misting is not a substitute for proper humidity and can be risky if water sits in the crown, leading to rot. It’s better to use a humidity tray or a room humidifier for consistent ambient moisture.

My home is very dry from heating. What can I do?

Group plants together, place pots on trays filled with pebbles and water (keep the pot base above the water line), or run a humidifier nearby. These methods are more effective and safer than frequent misting.

Following this orchid monthly checklist for November and December gives your plants the best chance to thrive during the seasonal transition. Paying close attention to their subtle signals is key—observe your plants regularly and adjust your care based on what you see. With these steps, you can look forward to healthy growth and beautiful blooms in the coming months.