As the summer heat begins to soften, your garden’s potential is far from spent. Knowing what to plant in late summer can fill your autumn table with fresh, homegrown produce. This transition period is a golden opportunity to extend your harvest well into the cooler months. With a little planning, you can enjoy a second wave of vegetables and greens.
The key is to focus on crops that mature quickly or thrive in cooler temperatures. You need to work with the remaining warm soil and the shortening days. Let’s get your garden ready for a productive fall.
What to Plant in Late Summer
This list focuses on vegetables you can sow directly from seed in late summer. Count back from your first average fall frost date using the “days to maturity” on your seed packet. This tells you exactly when to plant.
Leafy Greens (Fast and Reliable)
* Lettuce: Opt for loose-leaf or romaine varieties, which mature faster than head lettuce. Sow seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest.
* Spinach: A classic fall crop that actually sweetens after a light frost. Choose varieties labeled for fall planting.
* Kale: Incredibly hardy, it can survive winter under snow. You can start harvesting young leaves in fall and it will often regrow in spring.
* Arugula: Grows so quickly you’ll be harvesting peppery leaves in just over a month.
* Swiss Chard: Both the leaves and stems are edible. It’s more heat-tolerant than spinach if you’re having a warm spell.
Root Vegetables (Sweetened by Cool Weather)
* Radishes: Some varieties mature in as little as 25 days. They are perfect for a quick, satisfying crop.
* Beets: Plant for both the sweet roots and the delicious, edible greens. They store wonderfully for winter.
* Turnips: Another dual-purpose crop. Harvest the roots when young and tender, and use the greens like mustard greens.
* Carrots: Choose shorter, Nantes-type varieties for faster growth. The cool fall soil makes them exceptionally crisp and sweet.
* Kohlrabi: This unique vegetable, which tastes like a sweet broccoli stem, grows quickly in the fall garden.
The Brassica Family (Cool-Season Stars)
* Broccoli: Start from transplants for a head start. You’ll get a central head in fall, and often smaller side shoots after.
* Cauliflower: It’s a bit more fussy about temperature fluctuations. Using transplants is highly recommended for success.
* Asian Greens: Bok choy, tatsoi, and mizuna are fast-growing and add fantastic flavor to stir-fries and salads.
Legumes & More
* Bush Beans: Look for varieties with the shortest “days to maturity” (around 50 days). They will produce a nice crop before the first frost if planted early enough in late summer.
* Peas: Sugar snap and snow peas thrive in cool, moist weather. They might not produce as heavily as a spring planting, but the tendrils and pods are a treat.
* Cilantro & Dill: These herbs bolt (go to seed) quickly in summer heat. Planting them in late summer gives you a longer harvest of fresh leaves.
Preparing Your Garden for Fall Planting
You’ll often be planting in space vacated by earlier crops like garlic, onions, or early potatoes. Here’s how to prepare:
1. Clear the Area: Remove any previous plant debris and weeds thoroughly.
2. Loosen the Soil: Gently turn the soil with a fork. Avoid deep tilling, which can harm soil structure.
3. Amend if Needed: Add a thin layer of compost or a balanced organic fertilizer. This replenishes nutrients used by the last crop.
4. Water the Soil: Before sowing seeds, water the planting area deeply. This ensures moisture is available for germination without washing tiny seeds away.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Follow these simple steps to ensure your late summer planting is a succes.
1. Find Your Frost Date: Look up your area’s average first fall frost date. This is your most important calendar marker.
2. Check Seed Packets: Note the “days to maturity.” Add about 14 extra “fall factor” days because plants grow slower with less sun and cooler temps.
3. Calculate Your Planting Window: Count back the adjusted number of days from your frost date. That’s your last best chance to plant.
4. Sow Seeds Carefully: Plant seeds slightly deeper than you would in spring, as the soil surface is drier. The subsoil is still moist and warm.
5. Water Consistently: Germination depends on constant moisture. Water gently daily until seedlings emerge, then water deeply a few times a week.
6. Mulch Seedlings: Once plants are a few inches tall, apply a light mulch of straw or shredded leaves to conserve moisture and cool the roots.
Protecting Your Fall Garden
As nights get colder, some simple protection can extend your harvest for weeks or even months.
* Row Covers: Lightweight fabric row covers are a gardener’s best friend. They trap heat, protect against light frosts, and keep pests away.
* Cold Frames: These are simple bottomless boxes with transparent lids. They create a mini-greenhouse effect for hardy greens all winter.
* Cloches: Use individual glass or plastic covers to protect single plants like young broccoli or cauliflower.
Remember to vent any covers on sunny days to prevent overheating your plants.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make these errors when planting in late summer.
* Planting Too Late: This is the number one mistake. If the math doesn’t work on the seed packet, save those seeds for spring.
* Forgetting to Water: Late summer soil can be deceptively dry. Consistent watering is non-negotiable for germination.
* Ignoring Pests: Cabbage worms, slugs, and rabbits are still active. Check plants regularly and use appropriate organic controls.
* Not Using Mulch: Bare soil loses moisture faster and heats up more, stressing young seedlings.
Harvesting Your Fall Bounty
The best part! Harvest leafy greens by picking outer leaves so the center keeps producing. Root vegetables can often be left in the ground and harvested as needed until a hard freeze is expected. For brassicas like broccoli, cut the central head when the buds are still tight.
After a light frost, harvest your remaining carrots, beets, and turnips for storage. They’ll be at their peak flavor. Some greens, like kale and Brussels sprouts, actually tatse better after a frost.
FAQ: Your Late Summer Planting Questions
Q: How late is too late to plant for fall?
A: It depends entirely on the crop and your frost date. Always use the “days to maturity + 14 days” calculation. Fast radishes and greens can be planted much later than slower carrots or broccoli.
Q: Can I use seeds from spring, or do I need new ones?
A: If your spring seeds were stored in a cool, dry place, they are likely still viable for late summer planting. Older seeds may have lower germination rates, so sow a few extra.
Q: What if my summer crops are still producing?
A: You can interplant! Sow seeds of fast-growing greens like lettuce or radishes in between larger, fading summer plants. They’ll get established as the summer crops are removed.
Q: Do I need to fertilize my fall garden?
A: If you amended the soil with compost at planting time, additional fertilizer is often not needed for short-season crops. A light feeding with a liquid fertilizer can help leafy greens if growth seems slow.
Q: What are the best vegetables to plant at the end of summer?
A: The fastest and most reliable are leafy greens (spinach, lettuce, arugula), radishes, and bush beans. They give you a quick return before the deep cold sets in.
By acting now, you can turn the late summer lull into your garden’s most productive and flavorful season. The crisp air and fewer pests make gardening a joy, and the reward is fresh, homegrown food on your table long after summer has faded. Grab your seeds and get planting—your fall harvest awaits.