How To Clone Orchids

Learning how to clone orchids is a fantastic way to expand your collection for free. It sounds complex, but with the right method, it’s a process any gardener can master.

This guide will walk you through the simplest techniques. You’ll learn how to make exact copies of your favorite plants. It’s rewarding and much easier than you might think.

Cloning, or vegetative propagation, creates a genetically identical plant. For orchids, this often means using keikis, division, or back bulbs. These methods are reliable and don’t require specialized lab equipment.

You’ll need a few basic supplies. Having everything ready before you start makes the process smooth.

Sharp, sterilized knife or pruning shears
Fresh potting mix (orchid bark, sphagnum moss, or your preferred blend)
Clean pots with good drainage
Cinnamon powder or a commercial fungicide
Rubbing alcohol for sterilizing tools
Plant labels (so you remember what you cloned!)

Method 1: Cloning with Keikis (The Easiest Way)

A keiki is a baby plant that grows on the mother orchid’s stem or spike. It’s the plant’s natural way of cloning itself. Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium orchids produce keikis commonly.

First, you need to identify a ready keiki. Look for one with several leaves and at least two or three roots that are 2-3 inches long. Patience is key here; if you seperate it to early, it may struggle.

Step-by-Step Keiki Separation

Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol. This prevents spreading disease.
Locate the point where the keiki attaches to the flower spike or stem. Carefully cut about an inch above and below this connection point. You’ll have a small section of stem with the keiki in the middle.
Dust the cut ends on both the keiki and the mother plant with cinnamon. This acts as a natural antifungal.
Pot the keiki in a small container with moist orchid mix. Gently position the roots and fill in around them.
Place the new plant in a warm, humid spot with indirect light. Mist the roots lightly if they seem dry, but avoid overwatering.

Method 2: Cloning by Division (For Sympodial Orchids)

This method works for orchids that grow horizontally with multiple pseudobulbs, like Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums. These are called sympodial orchids. You basically split the plant into two or more complete sections.

The best time to divide is just before new roots start to grow, often after flowering. A good rule is to have at least three to four healthy pseudobulbs per division. More is always better for a strong start.

Step-by-Step Division

Remove the orchid from its pot. Gently loosen and shake off the old potting medium from the roots.
Visually trace the rhizome (the horizontal stem connecting the bulbs). Identify where you can make a clean split with several bulbs on each side.
Using your sterilized tool, cut through the rhizome. Try to make a clean cut without crushing it.
Again, dust all cut surfaces with cinnamon or fungicide. This step is crucial for preventing rot.
Pot each new division separately. Use a pot that fits the root mass snugly. Secure the plant with a stake or clip if it’s wobbly.
Water lightly and provide standard orchid care. New growth should appear in time.

Method 3: Using Back Bulbs (Propagating Older Plants)

Back bulbs are older, leafless pseudobulbs at the back of the plant. They store energy and can be encouraged to sprout a new growth. This is a great way to rejuvenate an old, leggy orchid.

Choose plump, firm back bulbs. Shriveled or mushy ones are not viable. You can remove them during repotting or division.

Step-by-Step Back Bulb Propagation

Carefully remove the back bulb from the main plant cluster. Make a clean cut through the rhizome.
Prepare a shallow tray with a moist medium like sphagnum moss or fine bark. Place the bulb on top, pressing it slightly into the surface.
Cover the tray with a clear plastic dome or bag to create a humid environment. This mimics a greenhouse.
Put the tray in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the medium slightly damp, not wet.
Be patient. It can take several months for a new shoot (or “eye”) to emerge. Once it has developed its own roots and leaves, you can pot it normally.

Aftercare for Your New Orchid Clones

Your cloned orchids need gentle care while they establish. They are more susceptible to stress than mature plants.

Watering: Keep the medium slightly moist but never soggy. Misting aerial roots can help.
Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can scorch tender leaves.
Humidity: Higher humidity (50-70%) is beneficial. You can use a humidity tray or group plants together.
Fertilizer: Wait until you see active new growth. Then, use a diluted, balanced orchid fertilizer every other watering.

Don’t be discouraged if growth seems slow at first. Orchids focus energy on root development before putting out new leaves. As long as the plant looks green and firm, it’s probably doing fine.

Troubleshooting Common Cloning Problems

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here’s how to handle common issues.

Rotting at the Cut: This is usually from a non-sterile tool or overwatering. Cut away the soft, brown material, apply more fungicide, and let the area dry out before resuming careful watering.

No Root Growth: The plant may be using its energy reserves. Ensure warmth and adequate humidity. You can try a rooting hormone designed for orchids, though it’s not always necessary.

Wilting Leaves: This indicates stress, often from low humidity or damaged roots. Increase humidity and ensure the plant is in a stable environment without drafts.

Remember, every orchid grower loses a plant now and then. It’s part of the learning process, so don’t give up. Each attempt teaches you something new about your plants needs.

FAQ: Your Orchid Cloning Questions Answered

What is the best time of year to clone an orchid?
The ideal time is usually in the spring or early summer. This is when most orchids enter their active growth phase, giving the clone the best chance to establish quickly.

Can you clone an orchid from a leaf?
No, you cannot clone a orchid from just a leaf cutting like you can with some succulents. Orchids require nodal tissue (from a stem or spike) or a growth bud to produce a new plant.

How long does it take for a cloned orchid to flower?
It requires patience. A keiki or division may flower in 1 to 3 years, depending on the type and growing conditions. A plant from a back bulb will take longer, often 3 to 5 years.

Why is my keiki not growing roots?
It might just need more time. Ensure it’s receiving enough light and warmth. You can also wrap the base very lightly with damp sphagnum moss to encourage root formation.

Is it better to clone in water or moss?
For keikis, potting directly into a coarse medium is standard. Some growers root keikis in water successfully, but the transition to potting mix later can be tricky. Moss provides moisture and air, making it a safe choice for back bulbs and delicate root systems.

Cloning orchids is a skill that gets easier with practice. Start with a healthy parent plant and a keiki if possible, as it’s the most straightforward method. Soon, you’ll have a thriving collection of beautiful, identical orchids all from your original favorite plant.