When To Plant Cabbage In Georgia

If you’re planning your Georgia garden, knowing when to plant cabbage is the first step to a great harvest. This cool-season crop thrives in our state’s climate, but timing is everything to avoid bolting or poor head formation.

Getting your planting dates right is the most important factor for success. Georgia’s long growing season and varying climates mean you can often grow two crops in a year.

Understanding Georgia’s Planting Zones

Georgia spans USDA hardiness zones 7b through 9a. This range affects your specific planting window.

North Georgia (Zones 7b-8a): This includes areas like Blue Ridge and Dalton. Springs are cooler and winters are colder, making for a shorter growing window.
Middle Georgia (Zones 8a-8b): This covers Atlanta, Macon, and Augusta. This is the transition area with a good long season for cabbage.
South Georgia (Zones 8b-9a): This includes Valdosta and Savannah. Here, winters are mild and summers heat up fast, which changes your strategy.

Spring Planting Dates

For a spring harvest, you need to get cabbage in the ground early. The goal is for it to mature before the intense summer heat arrives.

North GA: Transplant seedlings outdoors between February 15 and March 15.
Middle GA: Transplant seedlings outdoors between January 25 and February 25.
South GA: Transplant seedlings outdoors between January 15 and February 15.

Remember, these are dates for setting out transplants. You’ll need to start seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before these outdoor dates.

Fall Planting Dates

Fall is often the best and easiest time to grow cabbage in Georgia. The cooling temperatures are perfect for head development.

North GA: Plant transplants between July 20 and August 20.
Middle GA: Plant transplants between August 1 and September 1.
South GA: Plant transplants between August 15 and September 15.

For fall crops, you can start seeds directly in a shaded nursery bed in mid-summer and then transplant them, or use purchased starts.

Choosing the Right Cabbage Variety

Picking a variety suited to the season improves your results. Some are more heat-tolerant, while other resist cold better.

Best for Spring Planting:

Early Jersey Wakefield: A pointed, early heirloom that matures quickly.
Golden Acre: Forms solid, compact heads and is reliable.
Parel (Mini): A fast-maturing, small variety great for beating the heat.

Best for Fall Planting:

Charleston Wakefield: A larger, pointed heirloom great for fall.
Danish Ballhead: Excellent for storage and very cold hardy.
Savoy King: Has crinkled, sweet leaves that are very frost-tolerant.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Follow these steps to give your cabbage the best start, whether in spring or fall.

1. Site and Soil Preparation

Cabbage needs full sun—at least 6 hours daily. The soil should be well-draining but moisture-retentive.

Work the soil to a depth of about 12 inches.
Mix in 3-4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure. Cabbage is a heavy feeder.
Aim for a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. A soil test from your local extension office is very helpful.

2. Starting Seeds vs. Using Transplants

Most gardeners use transplants for both seasons to get a jump start.

Starting Seeds Indoors: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in cell trays. Keep them under grow lights or in a very sunny window. They need consistent moisture.
Buying Transplants: Choose stocky, green plants without any yellowing. Avoid plants that already look leggy or stressed.

3. How to Transplant Correctly

Proper transplanting reduces shock and gets plants growing fast.

Harden off home-started plants for 7-10 days before planting.
Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on the variety’s mature size.
Plant them at the same depth they were growing in their container. Firm the soil gently around the roots.
Water thouroughly right after planting to settle the soil.

4. Ongoing Care and Maintenance

Consistent care prevents problems and leads to better heads.

Watering: Provide 1-1.5 inches of water per week. Use a soaker hose to keep leaves dry and prevent disease. Irregular watering can cause heads to split.
Fertilizing: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer or compost tea 3 weeks after transplanting and again when heads begin to form.
Mulching: Apply 2-3 inches of straw or pine straw mulch to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil cool.
Pest Watch: Be on the lookout for cabbage loopers and imported cabbageworms. Handpick or use an organic Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray if needed.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Even with perfect timing, you might face a few issues. Here’s how to handle them.

Bolting (Premature Flowering)

Bolting happens when the plant goes to seed, ruining the head. It’s triggered by a period of cold weather after a young plant is established (in spring) or by prolonged heat (in fall).

Solution: Stick to the recommended planting windows. Use season-appropriate varieties that are bolt-resistant for spring planting.

Pest Pressure

Cabbage family pests are common but managable.

Cabbage Worms/Loopers: The green caterpillars that eat holes in leaves. Check the undersides of leaves. Bt is an effective organic control.
Aphids: Small clusters on new growth. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap usually takes care of them.
Prevention: Floating row covers placed over the plants right after transplanting can exclude most pests entirely.

Head Splitting

Splitting occures after a heavy rain or excessive watering, especially as heads near maturity.

Solution: Maintain consistent soil moisture. If a head is mature and splitting is likely, you can give the plant a slight twist to break some roots and slow growth.

Harvesting and Storing Your Cabbage

Harvest time depends on the variety and planting season, but the signs are the same.

Heads are ready when they feel firm and solid when you gently squeeze them.
Use a sharp knife to cut the head from the base, leaving the outer leaves and stem in the ground. Sometimes you’ll get a few smaller secondary heads.
For storage, keep whole, unwashed heads in the refrigerator crisper for up to two months. Some late-fall varieties can be stored in a cool, humid root cellar for months.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can you plant cabbage in the summer in Georgia?

Generally, no. Summer heat causes poor head formation, bitterness, and bolting. The excpetion is in far North Georgia, where you might plant a very heat-tolerant variety in very late summer for a late fall harvest.

Is cabbage a perennial in Georgia?

No, cabbage is grown as an annual vegetable. You must replant it each season for a harvest.

How late can you plant cabbage?

For a fall crop, you should get transplants in the ground by the dates listed above. Planting too late means the heads won’t have enough cool weather to size up properly before winter dormancy or a hard freeze.

What can I plant next to cabbage?

Good companions include aromatic herbs like dill and mint, which deter pests. Onions, celery, and potatoes are also good neighbors. Avoid planting near strawberries or tomatoes.

By following this guide for when to plant cabbage in Georgia, you align your gardening efforts with the state’s unique climate. Paying attention to your specific zone, choosing the right variety, and providing simple consistent care will lead to a rewarding harvest of crisp, homegrown cabbage for your table.